Travel tips based on our experience of overland travel since 2009:

We are a couple middle-aged with our dog Tara traveling Africa. My name is Eric and my wife is Alexandra.

We provide valuable information, which we gathered on our overland trip, which we started in 2009 and mainly in Africa. These travel tips are based on overlanding Africa, first in a camper van for almost 2 years and then with a Land Rover 4×4 for almost 6 years now, which we converted to be able to sleep inside, cook inside, what we occasionally do, especially during the “cold” seasons in Africa. We also provide travel tips for backpackers, if we learn about special information about backpacking.

info(@)overlandtraveltips(.)com

Travelguides

Erich Reisenberger

Altenburg 49

3150 Wilhelmsburg

0677/62996

On our travel to Mozambique we were crossing the border easily and we travelled through a National Park more or less straight to the coast. It was already a bit late when we checked in to Hotel Milpark in Chimbio. We got a key for a room for shower and we were happy.

01.06.2012 Beira

In the morning we continued direction Beira, along the road street sellers with different fruits like pineapple, pawpaw, delicious.

First we did not find the campsite Piques but finally we managed to check in and it was directly at the beach. Tara was happy as she likes the sea to have a swim or just looking out at the water.

We pitched up our big tent in the sand and needed to go to Beira to get a internet dongle and SIM for Mozambique.

When we wanted to cook our gas was empty and so we did our cooking with charcoal.

02.06.2012 – 06.06.2012

It is very windy at the coast and we have to put in our pegs again and again. We spent the days with working and enjoying the sea and the beach. Every day we walked to a close by local market to get the things we daily needed and I tested my Portugese which seemed not so bad because the people understood what I wanted to buy. We liked one of the market women where we started to buy regularly and also tasted her yeast baked dumplings which were delicious.

07.06.2012

The night was quiet and the wind did not blow, so we slept quite well. But the morning was not so nice as the dog hunters came with their truck to kill the stray dogs. Their method is rather sad, the dart the dogs with some substance, so that they get slow and with nets they catch them and throw them live onto the truck. Tara has observed all of this and got scared as she knew that the dogs were hurt. She just stayed close to us and a worker from the campsite came to tell us we should take care that she does not leave the camp and might get caught as well.

The days passed by with working and organising things.

29.06.2012

We got our Visas extenden for another month, in total we can stay for 3 month in Mozambique. Friday is always dico night and the music plays until morning. We again could not sleep as it was so loud that you could really feel the vibrations.

17.07.2012

The carburetor problem was still not solved or maybe it came again, anyway. So we got help from Martin a guy that originally originated from Germany and with him we tried to fix the carburetor issue. Whenever we tried to drive, in the beginning it worked very well but after a few kms the problem came again, only little power. So we took out the carburetor and fitted a seal in between hoping it changed something.

We met a guy, a hunter who brought clients to shooting elephants, promised to help us with TIP but he disappeared, also such guys you meet when traveling.

18.07.2012

Again in the garage. Floater of the carburetor was adjusted and again fitted into the vehicle for – I do not know – 100 times already.

Tara had bitten a little dog which was annoying to her. His mouth was swollen but the owner just said he must learn not to nerv other dogs.

In the afternoon we found a place were they refilled cooking gas and they even had one to sell, only a small 2.7 liter one but anyway we had not too much space so we bought it as a second one.

We are still in contact with Christin and Martin who we met in Kubu Island, because they were back in South Africa because they still had things to prepare before they could start their trip through Africa. They will follow us and we wanted to meet somewhere to continue together.

We said good bye to the lady from the market stall as we wanted to leave continue to the North. In the evening we sat together and drank beer and enjoyed the atmosphere in the bar.

19.07.2012

In the morning we drove to Martin the mechanic so adjust the floater again and adjust the cold start, the we made a test ride to shoprite a huge supermarket to do some shopping. We picked up a gas bottle again, had to wait until they finished their lunch break and drove back to Martin to pay our bill but he did not take money as he said that most of the things I did myself anyway.

In the evening we went to the restaurant to pay our bill, but the boss said we should pay when we would come again in the future, knowing that we would leave for Tanzania. Great people here! We slept well but discovered that the storm had damaged our tent a little bit.

20.07.2012 Caia

We left Beira and headed to Caia in the hinterland. The road changed from good to bad and good again. 26 km after Inhaminga a tar road started which was much better to drive. After we pad passed Caia there was a huge bridge across the Zambesi River. After the bridge we checked in at a campsite called Cuacua Lodge a well maintaned site with shower and soap. We just had dinner and went to “bed”.

21.07.2012 Nampula

Our days plan was Caia – Mocuba – Nampula about 770 kilometres. We managed to get as far as Mocuba 366 km and checked in at a campsite. The sites dog was a female and had puppies, so it decided to immediately attack our dog. I got him at his neck and Alexandra could put Tara back in the Land Rover, So no camping at the moment, another 404 km to drive until Nampula.

These are the situations I hate, as you need to plan ahead in Africa, as you never know what could all happen. So when we came near to Nampula is got already dark – an absolutely no go to drive when dark in Africa – and above all the tar road turned into a gravel road. When driving hours for hours you start acting like a robot and you just go on. As we experienced Alexandra could not drive the car as she had not the necessary power in her arms to steer without power steering on gravel roads or in sandy or muddy conditions.

Rather late we arrived in Nampula at the campsite Complexo Montes Nunc. Completely exhausted Taraand I fell asleep whileAlexandra put up the tent.

22.07.2012

In the morning we had a chat with an Norwegian couple also on overland Africa trip. The campsite was beautifully situated, really scenic.

We went to town, got petrol and headed to the Ilha de Moçambique. The weather was really bad and cloudy so we could not take any photos or do any filming. So before the bridge there was a campsite, we wanted to check in to wait for better weather, maybe tomorrow. But the owner did not bargain for the price. It was really too much money and above all three dogs dominated the place so we decided to go on.

So we drove on to Nacale to find a campsite at Beach Diving Center. It was a 4×4 track to get there but was a nice place, run by British Folks. There were 3 dogs as well, so we agreed to let our dog go for a walk away from the campsite. Later we would return later and keep her in the Land Rover. We spent a peaceful night there although it was raining during the night.

23.07.2012 Nacale nach Pemba

On the roadside stalls with fruits , nuts and much more, a dense vegetation wonderful to watch. In Pemba we went to Bush Camp but again they had 5 fierce dogs. So they did not take us in but recommended another campsite and explained us the way there. So we did not find it, used a lot of petrol, so again filling up from the jerry can. The drawing of the lady was not correct. But finally got there and learned that the campsite was still under construction.

Our last option was Russels Place, again for the forth time we passed police control, this time they stopped us. Alexandra was leaning at the side with her head supported by a jacket and was sleeping. So the police got suspicious and after checking her and not waking her up he waved me through, nice guy.

At Russels Place they were very friendly but had lots of dogs as well. As Tara had already her evening walk in the wild, we stayed at this campsite. We fed her, I kept the other dogs away and quickly put her back in the Land Rover.

We put up our tent, Alex cooked some Dinner and we had some beer. Soon we felt asleep. During the night I woke up and realized it was quite hot. So I got up and opened the windows of the Land Rover even more for Tara. So I got the chance to smoke a cigarette und surveillance of the pack of dogs.

24.07.2012

After an extensive walk with Tara we went to immigration to extend our Visa. But they did not do so, which I already had feared in Beira. I was not sure if the information might be wrong. So now we were glad that we had made many kms the last days. It was not so far anymore to the Tanzanian Border.

Next we went to the recommended garage to get our exhaust manifold welded again. I wonder how often it still can be done before it is finished. But it was without success so after a walk with Tara, we returned to the campsite. We had a chat with our neighbours, Germans that had lived in Kenya and invited us for Gin-Tonic. As a sleeping pill – 2 cold beers.

25.07.2012

In the morning back to the garage because on that bad roads we had 2 layers broken of our rear left spring. They took it out, welded them and fitted it back into the Land Rover. Looked good a nice farewell chat with the 80 years old owner and we went back to the campsite. I still tried to tighten the bolts from the exhaust manifold. As it was dirty there so I supposed air gets out there and indeed by tightening the noise got less.

26.07.2012 Pemba -Mocimboa de Praia

Early in the morning we left. The tar road was good, so we proceeded quite fast. Stop Over at a nice campsite next to the road.

27.07.2012

As the campsite had 7 dogs in Mocimboa we went out again to walk Tara. And anyway we needed some money from the ATM. I queued up as many people wanted to withdraw. After a long time it was my turn and I put in everything I needed. But there did not come any money at the ATM, but all others before me got their money. So I tried again and again and nothing. Impossible as there is money on the account. I got nervous and so the people waiting behind me. Then I had an idea and changed the language from English to Portugese and now the ATM gave me money. So bviously it only worked in Portugese language.

Back at the campsite we had a shower with view to the stars, same the toilet and had some dinner under the sky.

28.07.2012

We leave Mocimboa and get until Mueda, not really far but at least a lodge on our way. Checked in at Takatuka and camped in the yard of the Lodge. We had bucket shower, there was no running water.

In the morning in Mueda we quickly did some shopping and we headed to the border. The road was average gravel road. About 100 km before the real border the officer from Mocambique customs checked our TIP. He realized that the officer when entering the country had missed one figure in our car registration. So the TIP was not correct but he made no fuss and let us pass. Now we were heading to the bridge that connects Mozambique with Tanzania. Across the Bridge there id Tanzanian customs.

Crossing the border to overland Zimbabwe. Completely easy and uncomplicated. Visa fee was 30 USD per Person, Car insurance 55 USD. We had to show Tara’s vaccination certificate. Finished. Originally Zimbabwe was not planned at all, but as we changed our plans and extended our journey nothing could stop us from visiting Zimbabwe.

Vic Falls

We check in in Shoestrings Backpackers in a town called Vic Falls and put up our tent.

18.05.2012

We plan to stay in Shoestrings for 2 weeks as we need to do some work to be able to deliver to a broadcaster. We organized an internet stick, a modem that looks like a USB Stick and a SIM card.

19.05.2012

Made a walk through the city and compered the supermarkets available. Their is even a Spar market but Hypermarket is cheaper. Do some shopping and return to the campsite. At the bar there is a lot folks sitting and drinking, some bands play and everybody has fun. We are tired and go in our tent, Tara prefers to sleep in the Land Rover as the tent she does not like.

21.05.2012

Internet access is rather expensive. Within three days we have used up 54 USD for internet. During the night it is already cold, as in May the cooler season starts here. So we delivered the stuff for the Americans and continued with our new internet Business. Alexandra already sold 47 images this month which shows it is possible to earn a living with stock images.

Preparation for Hwange National Park 23.05.2012

We visited the Vet in Vic Falls because Tara needed her yearly 5 in 1 vaccination, which has to be documented in her travel papers.

We bought a jerry can which we need to overland Zimbabwe because petrol is not always available and headed for Hwange National Park.

Hwange National Park

On the way there we had to pay toll and visited a Land Rover Repair guy which unfortunetaly could not help us. So we checked in at Ivory Lodge, a beautifully located Lodge outside the National Park at a huge water hole which is lit during night and a nice hide away.

When we arrived there we were lucky. Around 80 elephants were present at the waterhole in the late afternoon soon. Simply amazing.

So we set up camp and had some dinner. When it got dark we walked to the hide. Just 3 meter in front of us the elephants were digging in the sand for the minerals. You could eben hear them breathing.

24.05.2012

Next morgen we could see them fighting as there was mating season. The others enjoyed a bath and the baby elephants were playing with each other.

We decided to stay here for 2 nights, no need to go into the park, as even charkals could be seen at the water hole.

25.05.2012

So we headed for Binga, campsite Mblizi at Lake Kariba. John from the campsite organized some fish for us which Alex prepared in the evening. Tara still was weak after the vaccination but was already getting better.

26.05.2012

We travelled on but had to return as there was no petrol available, only back at Binga. We returned again but stayed at caravan park half way to Binga. The caravan park was basic, it seemed it was abandoned, buildings were ruins. So we continued to Sikumi Lodge but they had no campsite and gave us the advise to go to caravan park.

27.05.2012

After having tried to continue we ended again at caravan park. The water facilities were basic and it was bitter cold. So we put up tent and hoped for a good night, at least it was quiet and safe but inspite of the sleeping bags rather cold. Now there was a caretaker who provided campfire wood. We barbecued fish with sweet potatoes . The bones we gave in a bag and put it to the sanitary building as there were no waste bins. But in the morning there was not much left, wildlife was hungry as well.

Bulawayo

Our camping chair was broken and we asked the caretaker if he wanted to have it but it must be repaired. He took it and was really happy. Now we left the campsite and headed to Bulawayo. The road was good tar so we made good progress. People were offering their goods at the roadside and busses heavily overloaded with goods and on top people were traveling on the truck.

Again before entering Bulawayo there was a toll station 1 USD for the road. We checked in at the local campsite which was really good even hot water showers. We set up camp and drove to town to do some shopping but in the huge supermarket there were no goods to sell except for cigarettes, one packet for 0.40 USD and some canned food. But we were lucky in a small shop we could buy a new camping chair – how lucky we have been.

Old Ruins of Zimbabwe 28.05.2012

We wanted to visit the old ruines of Zimbabwe, so we got up early and drove to National Monument Old Zimbabwe. The campsite there was nice with shower not so hot and the outside temperature was cold. BUt only 5 USD. So we decided to sleep in the Land Rover for the first time and we realized that it was too narrow. Somehow we managed the night but in the morning I took one of the cupboards and removed it. Now there was space enough.

29.05.2012

After coffee we visited the ruins. The ruins were impressive as they were built from stone in contrary to the mud huts the people were living in. We took pictures and videos and went back, acked and after a stop at the filling station we headed to Mutare.

Mutare

Along the road the farmers offered their goods. Everything 1 USD. 12 Clementines or 5 Avacados, 5 Onions or 10 Bananas. Finally we reached Mutare with broken exhaust and clogged carburetor. We got a campsite a little bit outside the town.

30.05.2012

In the morning we realized that petral was running over the tires. A nice guy from the campsite directed us to the police station where there were guys who tried to fix the carburetor.

31.05.2012

In the morning we went to the ATM but no money. At least we got out 20 USD but then was finished. At the customs they demanded an extra 50 USD per person, but we denied and told them that we would get back to Harare to get the visa there. Obviously that helped and they let us pass after paying for car insurance and TIP and some cash for the dogs papers.

TIP means temprary import permit and is available at every border. Europeans belive that they can only travel with carnet de passage, which is rather expensive, complicated and you have to deposit huge amounts for your car at the issuing organisation like ADAC. The truth s that at the border you get this TIP which costs a couple of dollars most of the time under 10 USD and so you can enter and leave the country without carnet.

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After a short stop in Maun to buy necessary things, we headed for Moremi National Park.

Moremi National Park

They have everywhere veterinary fences where officers control, if you do not carry forbidden goods. Also our dogs paper are checked at the fences.This time we were lucky and they just waved us through.

The road was as expected terrible. We arrived at Kaziikini Community campsite and this was situated beautifully. Everywhere tracks of elephants round the camp. Broken tree branches and other traces of elephants.

The waste bins were locked, so there for sure were monkeys as well. Alexandra prepared a delicious dinner . We made a campfire as well and spent a romantic evening.

During the night we listened to the hyenas.

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31.04.2012 Khwai River Concession

Next day early in the morning we continued to Khwai River. The river and its surrounding landscape were just fantastic. From tracks4africa we knew there must be a camsite close which we could not find first but nice Capetownians should us the way. Next to the sandy road everwhere elephants, elephants.. We thought we were in paradise.

Finally we got to the campsite. It was in the middle of the bush. The area is not really a national park but a concession area of the local people there. It had hardly any infrastructure. So we put up our tent. Next to us spring bok were grazing, elephants were scrubbing their back at the trees. Not even 20 meters away from our tent. So there must have been lions and hyenas as well so we made a huge campfire while cooking and eating. Later we went to bed.

I woke up when I heard strange noises next to our tent. Quickly the noise was identified as hippos. They are rather dangerous. When they had passed we decided to sleep in the Land Rover as we also heard lions quite close.

01.05.2012

We left and went back to Maun and stayed at Old Bridge Backpackers for 2 days. We worked on our computers and did some necessary “housework”

02.05.2012

Next to the backpackers there was a vet. Tara’s claws had to be shorten. A good vet so it was no big issue for her.

03.05.2012 Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

Leaving Maun to Gweta. Our next destination should be the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, a huge area of salt pans.. Nature became more dry with every km we drove. We checked in at Planet Baobab Campsite and met a Swiss-German couple who were traveling in a rented camper van in Botswana. Their names Melanie and Florian.

05.05.2012

We spent 2 evenings with them she cut Aexandra’s hair and Alex was massaging her. In the evening we made a huge campfire Florian was baking bread.

07.05.2012

Finally we left for Kubu Island an elevation in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. The track to this island was not easy to find inspite of the navigation device. So what is Kubu Island?

Kubu Island is situated in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and is a little bit elevated than the surrounding area, thus island. If there is water in the pan, it forms a little island with beautiful trees and a campsite.

The tricky part there is to find the right path.If you leave it you might get to a spot where you just sink with the vehicle in the mud under the sandy surface. The truck is lost for ever.

We passed Ntwetwe Pan, lots of Springbok were grazing, and finally reached Kubu Island, a heavenly place with lots of old baobab trees. We were the only ones and set up camp and made a campfire for the evening.

Unfortunetly we had no beer and wine left, so was supposed to become a real dry evening.

I had to check and fix the exhaust because on the way to Kubu Island, it broke. It could be fixed with gumgum a strange stuff to bandage exhaust pipes. It was of course only a temporary solution.

The necessaries were done, now we could go arount and film and take photos.

When we returned to our spot a South African Camper vehicle was parked next to us. I turned out it was Martin and Christin and their dog. They had contacted us via internet about our experiences when traveling with a dog. So we knew each other at least from the internet. Now by accident we met them here in the most remote place on earth.

With them it got a very nice evening and as we ran out of good drinks they offered Gin Tonic all evening. Christin was cooking noodles with meat and Alexandra prepared the fire while we guys exchanged important travel information.

08.05.2012

As we got along quite well we arranged a meeting in the near future. We left the site and drove along the Sowa pan to Nata and finally left Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. There we found a guy to weld our exhaust. We checked in at Nata Lodge Campsite and had to ice cold beer – cheers. We enjoyed the stylish decorated Lodge.

09.05.2012

We continued on a good tar road, but good road in Africa still means 30 km/h because of lots of potholes. In the evening we checked in at Panta Camp but as we wanted to pay they had no change so they said they will come later.

Christin and Martin arrived and we spent a nice eening with them.

10.05.2012 Hunters Road

Our destination was the Hunters Road a dirt road that leads to the North and runs along the border to Zimbabwe.

Hunters Road refers to a strip of land all along the Zimbabwe border of Botswana, stretching from Kasane in the north to just north of Nata in the south. The off-road track along the border runs parallel to the A3 and passes through many hunting concessions, forest reserves and tribal trust land or villages.

Camping within forest reserves are not allowed, but you may drive through these areas. The road condition may vary from season to season, so always inquire before you go, especially after heavy rains.

It s said that it is full of wildlife so we were full of expectations. We left early and forgot to pay the campsite.

The route was scenic and the track not so bad but sandy but the wildlife was not overwhelming. Some birds, a herd of zebras and Kudus could be spotted.

When the track was becoming difficult our fear was that the Land Rover might turn over as our roof rack was loaded heavily. And it happened that when declining a river bed that we almost turned over.

We had big Zarges Boxes on the roof rack which were packed full so the weight on the roof was a lot of kgs.

We followed the river bed that is why it can only be traveled in dry season. Finally we arrived in Kasane. In Kubu Lodge we made camp directly at the River Chobe. When we checked in and paid for camping, we realized we had not paid for the last one.

In the afternoon Christin and Martin arrived as well. They had seen lots of elephants. They were lucky.

11.05.2012

The days were fleeting, during the day we had to work on our computers. In the evening we sat together with Christin and Martin. Every day we prepared perfect dinner and had delicios wine.

14.05.2012

Martin had a Kanu on board and we both guys wanted to try it at Chobe River. It was an amazing trip, but the River is tricky but we managed to get back to the campsite in one piece.

Overlanding Botswana overview

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In the morning I organised with Vital the owner of Oppi Koppi the pilot project for a donkey tour. The plan was to drive to a outlook to enjoy the sunset. There guests should have sparkling wine and some snacks. This was planed as a tourist attraction and I had to make a video for the website of the Lodge.

We managed to make the tour to film the donkeys and the cart and of course the sunset. It was a really nice evening. At night we all drove to the Lokasi, the hometowns of the native Namibians who are living there. The workers of the Lodge also lived there.

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It was a nice evening we danced at the loud music of the Namibians and had fun with them.

Next day a Friday we had dinner with Vital, Marianne, Rick and Anne. Kind of a farewell dinner as our departure was getting closer. We packed everthing and spent the weekend at Andrea and Volkers place. I used the time to edit the videos for Vital and Andrea and uploaded everything to their websites.

On 02.04.2012 we finally left Kamanjab again and headed to Grootfontein. In Grootfontein we checked in at a campsite that belonged to a guy from Austria. He kept a Lion and lots of Ostriches at his farm.

Next day we travelled to Botswana again to Tsumkwe and Dobe. Before the border we stayed at a wild camp under marvellous Baobab Trees. Some of the San people came to get the camping fee and we spent a perfect night near the border.

Heading to the Border

Next morning we went up early as we had to leave Namibia exactly this day because our Visa expired. The alternative would have been to go to jail. So we were in a hurry and took the wrong path and after a bend we ended in a pool. Luckily only with the front wheels so with reduction gear and all wheel drive we could free ourselves.

Just in time we reached the border, The crossing was easy without hassle and we headed direction Maun. They were not issuing visas at this border it was just a mud hut. So we had to get to Maun to immigration.

Difficult Road Conditions after the border

The sandy road was difficult to drive and we managed this time not to get stuck. As it was so difficult, we underestimated time and it was already dark when got to the tar road. Not only we underestimated the time but also petrol consumption. It must have been around 40 litres per 100 km. We ran out of petrol in the middle in the night. Somewhere in the nowhere about 30 km before Maun.

I took the spare jerry can and was hitchhiking in the middle of the night. A car stopped,Tara and Alexandra stayed at the truck. I was bargaining the price to take me to Maun to the filling station and back to the car. So we had no cash left and I had to get an ATM as well. The 4 guys drove me to Maun to an ATM. T hen to the petrol station where I filled the jerry can and they were supposed to bring me back.

But they did not follow the main road and turned off in a strange neighbourhood. Finally we entered the courtyard of a house. I was scared like hell and tought the worst would happen right now in the dark. The guys went out of the car and disappeared. After a while another one came back and finally drove me back to Alexandra and our car.

I paid the guy and quickly topped up the petrol. Late we drove on to Island Safari Lodge at around 2 o’ clock in the night. Exhausted, dirty we killed a bottle of hard spirits and fell asleep in our new home the Land Rover 109

Again in Maun

We had to go to Maun to get our visas, but we only got 45 days instead of 90 days. We were already in Botswana within 365 days, so for this period we only could get 45 more days. We had already spent time in the country. At the ATM we withdraw money but the amount possible per day was 2000 Pula. Not really much if you need a bigger amount.

Our daily routine consisted of writing texts, working on the computer, translating into English and so on, as we had to push our new job.

From Rick and Anne we had a tent, which was fixed to the Landrover to spend some shelter but the zipper was already broken, so we had to get a new tent. As we now had to work on our Laptops while traveling we needed some shelter to work. As it was windy the fine sand was everwhere and this would for sure damage the laptops over time.

So we looked in Maun and at the Indian Lady we months before had bought the coffee pot we now found a rather huge tent for a good price. Back at the campsite we put it up and were quite satisfied with our purchase.

We had to get tires: 06.04.2012

Next new tires were on the agenda. So our dimension was not so common but we found a place where we could buy Bridgestone 750 R16 4 pieces for 6200 Pula. A perfect fit for our Land Rover.

And we had to get a power generator: 07.04.2012

As we now had to work on computers and electricity was a big issue in most of the countries, we decided to buy a generator for 220 Volt. Nothing to find but we found a laptop bag, as mine was already done. Walking further we came to a quarter with lots of Chinese sops and there we found a generator for around 40 Euros. At the camsite we just tried it and were happy that it worked but not very smooth, I found out later that you need to mix the petrol with 2-stroke oil.

Overlanding Botswana overview

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We drove back to Namibia and entered via Dobe to finally arrive again to Oppi Koppi, because our camper van was still there.

Destruction of the camper van by customs

The rancher Robi wanted to have the car but was supposed to organise the papers, but soon we learned that he could not get the papers done and the only option seemed to destroy the van in Namibia. Lars a German guy who operates a Unimog garage in Kamanjab, organised the customs officer from Otiwarongo.

Before we took out the furniture and all the stuff which we needed to build up the Land Rover and which we could still use.

The three officers came and instead of cutting the vehicle in half which would have been useful for Lars so he at least could have utilised the car, the officers demanded that the bulldozer has to damage the vehicle heavily and after that it should have been burned.

Alexandra was very sad as the was our wedding vehicle and travel companion for years. At least Lars could safe the seats, tires and some spares and the bulldozer hit the car heavily and finally it was burned and the some could be seen far into the landscape.

We had to pay the officers 1200 Nam Dollar and they should send us the papers of destruction. As the vehicle was traveling on a Carnet the passage, which was issued by ADAC, we had to get our deposit back. When we got the papers we sent a copy to ADAC in Germany with DHL to speed up the process. But after we had sent it they wanted also the expired Carnet, so we had to go again to Windhoek to DHL to send the papers to Germany. After 5 weeks we finally got the deposit back.

Our dog Tara got a new infection with tick fever, so we had to get to the Vet again to pick up her medicine.

As our distributor of our videos stopped operating and owed us around 50.000 Euro, we slowly ran out of money. But we had to continue to Botswana as our Namibia Visa expired, so Vital told us we could pay for the expenses from Botswana.

Building the Land Rover for the next years to come

The time went buy and with Vital we welded a roof rack for the Land Rover and even managed to coat it with zinc. The furniture from the van we fitted in the Land Rover and made also new parts from wood to make it our home for the next years to come.

Rick and Anne were living on the Lodge as well, as the campsite belonged to them until they sold it to Vital and Marianne but kept the right to build a house on the compound which they did and lived there already for a couple of years. They were traveler like us, traveling all over the world but were now in their late 70ies and no longer planed to do longer trips, so they gave us their awning as a present, which we fixed to the Land Rovers roof rack.

We were lucky as we could put all our stuff from the camper van in a safe shelter at Rick and Vital and could use Vital’ s tools and garage to make everything fitted into the small room the Land Rover provided compared to the van. Some thing we gave as a present, because simply we had no space left.

Some of the evenings we spent with Rick and Anne and were talking about their log journeys and how they came here.

Himba People – a visit of a Himba village

There was another couple next to Kamanjab that operated a farm – Andrea and Volker, German speaking Namibians. As the Internet was broken at Oppi Koppi they invited us to their place to use their internet, as we had to find a new job as our German distributor did not pay any more our videos and owed us quite a lot of money, so we basically had to find a source of income to continue our trip. So we decided to try to get digital nomads as it nowadays is called. So things had to be built up, where we needed internet access of course.

In the evenings we sat together with Andrea and Volker and had a lot of fun and drinks. Andrea was an artist as well and did some painting on the Land Rover. Although our distributor crashed I wanted to finish the documentary which consisted of 13 Episodes. So on the farm of Andrea there was living a tribe of Himba people which we should document and make a little video clip for Andreas Website.

Next morning we started to visit the Himba village with Andrea and we could make our videos and photos, which Alexandra was allowed to upload to image agencies in the states to earn money with the images.

We are impressed that the Himba people could maintain their original lifestyle. They are a pastoral people, who keep cattle and goats. They live in mud huts and are self catering. With the production of souvenirs, especially the making of necklaces, they earn cash to use for the purchase of goods from the grocery store, because barter is not available in supermarkets.

In the morning, the women meet and hold a palaver. Thereafter is cooked. On the open fire they prepare Millipab, the traditional corn porridge. This is the main food of the Himba. A striking feature of the women is their hairstyle. The hair is smeared with butter and Oka, which allows interesting hairstyle creations. The reddish color of the body and luster of the skin comes from the butter fat with which they rub the body and the reddish color comes from iron oxide ground stones. It is only the beauty and has nothing to do with insect repellent, as suggested in many cases.

Fetching water often is the task of young people or children. The water is often brought from distant places, dangerous in the bush. After sleeping over noon, life comes back to the village.

They meet again to gossip, exchange information and discuss problems. he afternoon is also the singing, dancing and games. Hopefully the Himba people can still preserve their life style over the next centuries.

Unrest among the chicken. A chicken is captured and accurately examined. It might have parasites. The children gather curiously around the chicken. Chicken are part of the diet of the Himba people, not only as an egg supplier. This time the chicken was lucky, it does not land in the soup pot.

In the evening we sat again together with Andrea and Volker and had some drinks. But we still had to drive back to Kamanjab in the night. It had rained a lot and little pools were forming the gravel road back to Kamanjab.

First Pool, second pool the water and mud came into the car next to the gear levers and the stalled. After lots of trials the engine started again but with terrible noise as the exhaust manifold has broken. We got stuck still several times but could free ourselves until we finally reached the campsite of Oppi Koppi late in the evening.

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The Okavango River is a vital watercourse located in southern Africa, coursing through a diverse range of landscapes and ecosystems. Its origin lies in the highlands of Angola, where rains fuel its inception. A meandering journey ensues as it navigates across the dry plains of Namibia and into Botswana, its final destination. The river’s trajectory defies conventional norms, for instead of finding its terminus in an ocean, it fans out into a vast inland delta known as the Okavango Delta.

This delta is an oasis of life amidst the arid landscapes of the Kalahari Desert. It breathes life into the region, sustaining an intricate web of flora and fauna. Reed beds and papyrus sway in the water, creating a labyrinth of channels and islands that teem with life. The delta’s heart pulses with seasonal floods, replenishing its depths and rejuvenating its surroundings.

The Okavango River supports an unparalleled wealth of biodiversity. Aquatic creatures ranging from the formidable Nile crocodile to playful otters call its waters home. Fish species, adapted to the delta’s ever-changing waters, thrive in abundance, feeding a cycle of life that extends to the numerous bird species that either call the delta home or visit during their migrations.

Terrestrial life thrives on the river’s banks and islands. Elephants, known for their bathing rituals, find solace in the river’s embrace. Buffalo and antelope gather to quench their thirst, always wary of lurking predators. The river is a lifeline for them, sustaining their existence in this harsh environment.

Human communities have flourished along the Okavango River for centuries. Indigenous people have formed intricate relationships with the river, relying on its waters for sustenance and transportation. Fishing, farming, and trade have been interwoven with the river’s flow, shaping cultures and traditions.

Modern challenges cast shadows upon the river’s vitality. Changes in land use, pollution, and climate fluctuations pose threats to its delicate balance. Conservation efforts have risen to the forefront, aiming to preserve this ecological marvel for future generations. National parks and wildlife reserves have been established to safeguard the river’s surroundings, providing sanctuaries for its inhabitants.

Tourism also plays a role in the Okavango’s story. Visitors flock to the delta to witness its splendor firsthand, embarking on safaris that offer glimpses of the incredible diversity that flourishes in this dynamic ecosystem. Guided by local experts, tourists gain insights into the delicate dance between life and water.

In conclusion, the Okavango River is a living testament to nature’s capacity for wonder and resilience. From its humble beginnings in Angola to its transformative journey through Namibia and Botswana, it nurtures life in the arid heart of southern Africa. Its waters sustain a delicate equilibrium of aquatic and terrestrial life, while also shaping human societies that have thrived along its banks. The challenges it faces today underscore the importance of responsible stewardship to ensure that its vibrant legacy endures for generations to come.

The Tsetse Fly: Unraveling the Enigma of Africa’s Silent Menace

In the sweltering embrace of Africa’s vast savannahs and dense woodlands, a tiny yet formidable creature commands attention: the tsetse fly. Measuring a mere few millimeters, this unassuming insect carries with it a legacy that intertwines with the very essence of the continent. Behind its delicate exterior lies a potent enigma – a vector of disease and an intricate player in the ecological web. With a quiet buzz, the tsetse fly weaves a narrative that traverses biology, history, and the intricate tapestry of human and animal life.

Found predominantly in sub-Saharan Africa, the tsetse fly belongs to the Glossinidae family. Its name, derived from the Tswana word “tsetse,” signifies the insect’s unsettling and persistent buzzing sound. While its appearance might deceive, its role in shaping ecosystems and human societies has been profound, albeit often unnoticed. What makes the tsetse fly a matter of both curiosity and concern is its association with a debilitating disease – human African trypanosomiasis, commonly known as sleeping sickness.

The tsetse fly’s role as a vector of sleeping sickness traces back to a microscopic foe – the protozoan parasites of the genus Trypanosoma. When an infected tsetse fly feeds on the blood of a mammal, including humans, these parasites enter the bloodstream, initiating a perilous journey within the host’s body. The disease’s early symptoms are often subtle, ranging from fever and headache to joint pain and itching. As the infection advances, however, it can penetrate the central nervous system, leading to severe neurological disorders, disruption of sleep patterns, and even death.

For centuries, the tsetse fly’s silent menace has shadowed the lives of those dwelling in its territories. Entire regions were rendered uninhabitable due to the fear of contracting sleeping sickness. Livestock, particularly cattle, suffered as well, falling victim to a similar disease called nagana, caused by a different species of the parasite. Nagana not only compromised animal health but also disrupted agricultural practices, with far-reaching implications for local economies.

The tsetse fly’s presence, paradoxically, is also a window into the ecosystems it inhabits. Its preference for densely vegetated areas, often near water sources, speaks to its reliance on specific habitats. As a result, the fly’s distribution has been a subtle indicator of the health of these ecosystems. Alterations to landscapes – whether through deforestation, habitat fragmentation, or climate change – have had profound implications for tsetse fly populations, triggering changes in disease transmission dynamics and affecting the delicate balance between vectors, hosts, and parasites.

Understanding and combating the tsetse fly’s impact have proven to be intricate challenges. Over the years, various approaches have been employed to control the fly’s populations and the diseases it spreads. Insecticide-treated traps, targets, and screens have been used to lure and eliminate tsetse flies, while livestock treatments and breeding programs aim to reduce the impact of nagana. Research into the fly’s biology, ecology, and the diseases it transmits continues to illuminate new avenues for control and prevention.

Efforts to eliminate the tsetse fly and its associated diseases have not been without controversy. Approaches such as large-scale insecticide spraying and habitat manipulation have raised concerns about unintended ecological consequences. Balancing the eradication of disease vectors with the preservation of delicate ecosystems requires a nuanced approach that considers the complex interactions within these environments.

The tsetse fly also serves as a symbol of Africa’s intricate connection with nature. Its presence underscores the coexistence of wildlife, livestock, and humans, shaping the ways these groups interact and influencing the development of cultures and economies. In some regions, the presence of tsetse fly-infested areas has led to unique adaptations, such as shifting cultivation practices or the development of specific cattle breeds that are more resilient to nagana.

As science and technology advance, new tools are emerging in the battle against the tsetse fly and the diseases it spreads. Genetic modification and sterile insect techniques show promise in reducing tsetse fly populations without the widespread use of pesticides. These innovative methods, however, come with their own set of challenges and ethical considerations, highlighting the complexity of managing disease vectors in a changing world.

The tsetse fly, with its unassuming demeanor, reveals a complex tapestry of interactions that transcend its tiny size. From the intricate biology of parasites to the delicate balance of ecosystems, its presence echoes through time and space, leaving an indelible mark on both human societies and the natural world. As we continue to unravel the mysteries of this silent menace, we uncover not only the threads of disease transmission but also the threads that connect us all in the intricate web of life.

The Zambezi River: A Ribbon of Life Weaving Through Africa’s Heart

The Zambezi River, a grand tapestry of nature’s design, flows with an indomitable spirit through the heart of Southern Africa, a life-giving artery coursing through six nations. It emerges as a true emblem of the continent’s vitality, nurturing both land and life along its 1,599-mile (2,574-kilometer) journey from the heart of Zambia to the Indian Ocean. From its humble beginnings as a small stream to its thunderous plunge over Victoria Falls, the Zambezi embodies the very essence of Africa’s wilderness, resilience, and the intricate interplay between nature and civilization.

Born from the rugged highlands of northwest Zambia, the Zambezi is a river of contrasts. It starts as a quiet trickle, a shy affirmation of existence, gathering strength as it collects tributaries and streams on its relentless journey. Like a storyteller unfurling a narrative, the river’s course weaves through diverse landscapes, dictating the rhythm of life within its embrace.

Victoria Falls, one of the most awe-inspiring natural wonders of the world, serves as both a testament to the Zambezi’s might and a reminder of its transformative power. As the river plummets with a roar of thunderous applause, it creates an ethereal veil of mist, casting rainbows across the sky. Known locally as “Mosi-oa-Tunya,” or “The Smoke That Thunders,” the falls epitomize the Zambezi’s dynamic character, as it transitions from a placid journey to a tumultuous descent.

Beyond the spectacle of Victoria Falls lies a vast mosaic of ecosystems that rely on the Zambezi’s generosity. The river’s flow carves through savannahs, wetlands, and woodlands, offering sustenance to a staggering array of wildlife. Elephants, the gentle giants of the land, gather along its banks, using its waters as a respite from the sun’s relentless heat. Crocodiles, masters of the water, lurk beneath its surface, embodying the river’s duality as a giver of life and a stage for the hunt.

The Zambezi’s fertile floodplains form a vital link in the intricate web of life, nurturing species and ecosystems in a delicate dance. These expansive wetlands, nurtured by the river’s seasonal surges, support a profusion of flora and fauna. From the delicate ballet of water lilies to the stealthy movements of predators, the Zambezi’s floodplains epitomize the fragile harmony of nature’s symphony.

As the river meanders through landscapes, it weaves stories of human existence. Local communities have relied on its bounty for generations, drawing sustenance from its waters and fertile soils. The Zambezi has provided not only sustenance but also a means of transportation and commerce. Fishing, a tradition that has endured over time, links generations and cultures, casting a net of tradition across the river’s surface.

Yet, like many rivers, the Zambezi is not untouched by the hand of humanity. The complexities of modern life – agriculture, industry, and urbanization – have left their imprint on its waters. Conservation efforts, driven by a shared understanding of the river’s importance, aim to balance development with the preservation of its delicate ecosystems. Organizations, governments, and communities are uniting to safeguard the Zambezi’s purity for generations to come.

Tourism has become a cornerstone of the Zambezi’s narrative. As the river winds through different countries, it offers a playground for those seeking adventure and communion with nature. Activities such as river safaris, canoeing, and fishing draw enthusiasts who are captivated by the promise of an unfiltered encounter with the wild. The Zambezi, a theatre of life’s drama, allows visitors to witness its creatures, landscapes, and the intricate stories that unfold within its banks.

The Zambezi River, with its origins shrouded in mystery and its course a mosaic of landscapes, embodies the pulse of Africa. It is not just a river; it is a lifeline, a teacher, and a guardian. It nurtures, challenges, and inspires those who live in its embrace. Its waters tell tales of birth, growth, and transformation, echoing the stories of nations and cultures that have flourished along its course. As it journeys through time and terrain, the Zambezi River stands as a symbol of the continent’s boundless spirit and the enduring dance of life it orchestrates.

The Kafue River: A Serpentine Tapestry of Zambia’s Landscape

The Kafue River, a sinuous thread woven into the very fabric of Zambia’s terrain, emerges as a defining entity in the mosaic of this Southern African nation. Unfurling its watery embrace over a meandering course of around 620 miles (1,000 kilometers), the Kafue charts its own course through a diverse canvas of landscapes, ecosystems, and human settlements, leaving an indelible mark on Zambia’s geography, ecology, and history.

From its inception in the foothills of the northwestern Zambian plateau, the Kafue River embarks on a journey of discovery, coursing through the nation with an unwavering purpose. As it winds its way through the undulating terrain, the river gathers waters from tributaries and streams, transforming into a formidable force that shapes the very land it traverses. The Kafue embodies the essence of movement and change, mirroring the dynamism of the world around it.

Its role as a lifeline is most poignant within the heart of the Kafue National Park. Here, the river becomes a vital wellspring for an astounding array of wildlife, drawing creatures from the depths of the woodlands and the heights of the savannah. Elephants, those colossal custodians of the wild, gather at its banks, seeking respite from the sun’s relentless gaze. The river’s waters play host to the splashes and ripples of hippos and crocodiles, crafting an aquatic drama that is both captivating and primal.

As the Kafue unfurls, it creates a fertile ribbon that nurtures the land it touches. The river’s floodplains and wetlands, often teeming with life, are a testimony to its nurturing influence. These lush oases offer sustenance to countless species, from the dainty antelopes that graze upon the greenery to the vibrant birdlife that punctuates the air with melodies. The Kafue is more than just water; it is a cradle of life, fostering ecosystems that are as delicate as they are resilient.

Along its banks, human settlements have sprouted like seeds carried by the wind. Communities have thrived in harmony with the river for generations, drawing from its waters for irrigation, fishing, and sustenance. The Kafue River, a silent witness to countless stories, has been a source of life, an artery that pulses through the lives of those who call its shores home. It has sustained and supported, forging an intricate connection between the people and the water that sustains them.

Yet, like any tale, the story of the Kafue River is not without its challenges. Human activities have left their imprint on this aqueous narrative. Agricultural runoff, mining activities, and industrial processes can cast a shadow on the river’s purity, reminding us of the fragile equilibrium that must be maintained. Conservation efforts have risen in response, driven by a shared understanding of the river’s intrinsic value and the need to safeguard its vitality for generations to come.

The Kafue River is also a conduit for exploration and adventure. The ebb and flow of its currents draw not just wildlife, but also the curious souls seeking communion with nature. Tourists are drawn to its banks, captivated by the promise of untamed landscapes and the thrill of encountering creatures in their natural habitat. Safari enthusiasts, armed with cameras and binoculars, embark on journeys that echo the explorations of yesteryears, fostering a connection between humanity and the wilderness.

Under the Zambian sun, as the Kafue River reflects the hues of dawn and dusk, it embodies the essence of Zambia itself – a nation that wears its natural heritage like a crown. The Kafue tells a tale of coexistence, resilience, and evolution, a story that transcends its aquatic boundaries and echoes the universal journey of life itself. As it winds through Zambia’s landscapes, the Kafue River speaks of continuity, change, and the enduring rhythm of existence.