We are on the way to the Dezda pottery. First, the route leads through vast sugar cane fields, through small villages until it leads up in mountainous areas.

On a truck party is held. No matter what the circumstances, the Africans know how to party and be happy. We wave back and forth, have fun, we finally overtake, the truck is too slow.

Occasionally we stop, because the scenery is great and the clouds atmosphere and dawn add to the beauty.

Just before nightfall, we arrive at the campground at the pottery. Unfortunately today it is not operating, so we can not see the workers, but we can take a look at their products.

It was established in 1984 by the Dedza Pottery Trust, a non-profit organization that aims to promote the development of the Malawian pottery industry and provide employment opportunities for local people.

The workshop produces a wide range of pottery and ceramics, including hand-crafted plates, bowls, mugs, and vases, as well as decorative items such as figurines and sculptures. The pottery is made using locally sourced clay and traditional techniques, and each piece is unique.

Dezda Pottery also offers training and apprenticeship programs for aspiring potters, as well as community outreach programs that teach pottery skills to disadvantaged groups such as women and youth. The workshop has played a significant role in promoting Malawian pottery and supporting local artisans, and its products are sold both locally and internationally.

Malawi pottery is a traditional craft that has been practiced in Malawi for centuries. It is a vital part of Malawi’s cultural heritage and is closely linked to the country’s history and identity.

The pottery in Malawi is often made using locally sourced clay and traditional techniques. The pieces are usually handcrafted and decorated with intricate patterns and designs. Some of the most common items produced by Malawian potters include plates, bowls, mugs, vases, figurines, and sculptures.

The pottery industry in Malawi has undergone significant changes over the years, with many modern potters incorporating new designs and techniques into their work. In recent years, there has been a growing interest in Malawian pottery both locally and internationally, and many potters are now selling their work online and through international exhibitions.

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Zomba Plateau

Gradually, the road winds high up to the Zomba Plateau. Already at the end of the 19th Century the forests were created here. The protected area comprises 47 Quatratkilometer and has a height of 2087 meters above sea level. The campground is located at 1,500 meters. The climate here is cool, there is often a thick fog.

At the campsite I look at the damage more closely. The cut extends from the front to the entire length of the vehicle. Only body damage, now it looks like an African car. Here no one is fussy with cars.

The Trout Farm Campsite is situated in a clearing in the woods. Beautiful lush green plants, a rivlet running through the camp site, you might be in Switzerland. But it is bitterly cold here and we move quickly in the hot lowlands of Malawi.

We go to Blantyre to marvel at the church. Built around 1890 by Reverend Scott without the knowledge of a architecture at all – Angels Church. It is the landmark Blantyres.

Lengwe National Park

On a mountain road, we descend into the plains to the National Park Lengwe It is stiflingly hot, and we find a place in the shade at the campground.

It was not until the late afternoon when we drive to a nearby lookout in the woods. The outlook is well camouflaged in the bushes, and allows a view of a waterhole. Patiently, we wait.

And we’re lucky. A Nyala is at the watering hole. They are up to two meters high and up to 110 kilograms. They live in small groups, preferably near water and are easily recognizable by their white stripes on the belly. They are similar to the sitatunga and bushbucks, but the stripes are more clear.

We wait a bit, but it’s getting late and the water hole stays unvisited.

We drive back to the campsite. The next morning we want to another outlook. We stop at a giant baobab tree. Incredibly, its scope and size. We are unfortunately too late and at the second water hole not much happens anymore, so we leave the park.

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On our way to Liwonde National park we stop over at Cape Maclear in Lake Malawi National Park and the journey is interesting. The last few kilometers to the lodge, we drive through a Fishing village.

We are beautifully located on the shore next to the lodge, with good views of the Lake Malawi.

And we already attract attention. A monitor lizard is interested in us. I’m worried about Tara, because the lizard is not exactly small and a fast hunter. It eats meat, so I think about locking up Tara, but then we decide that Tara is much too rich a prey.

Slowly it moves closer. We are excited what will happen.

Tara has discovered the lizard and is itself curious. I whistle her back. We do not want to risk a direct confrontation.

It sees the dog, but passes at a respectful distance. Too rich prey.

For a while we watch life on Lake Malawi, from here we only travel inland.

We buy fish at the roadside. The vendors prepare the fish for us. We are heading to Liwonde National Park in the south. The dinner is organized as they fillet the fish for us. The children are curious about what the foreigners do here.

Refrigerator filled, we’re going to Liwonde, where we check in at the Guest House at the Shire River. We have a good view of the river and the fishing boats.

In the morning we are traveling in Liwonde National Park, including Tara. The landscape is very dry, although the park runs along the river.

The Liwonde Park has now largely recovered. The enchanting river landscape was once home to hundreds of elephants and hippos. Population growth and poaching troubled these wilderness. Some species, such as rhino, zebra and buffalo died out. Animal traps wounded the animals unnecessarily.

The result was that the lions and elephants in Liwonde were the most aggressive in the whole of Africa, because they saw man as a worst enemy. Few people visited the park until 1990. The camp was neglected, underpaid rangers, the animals are very shy. International aid began to take action. A 117 km long electric fence was built, the camp has been privatized, extinct animal species have been reintegrated. In this way, the park received two rhinos.

An the river we discover a single bull elephant. We must be careful. n Liwonde Park the chance is very high to see some of the approximately 800 elephants on the riverbank. Also, waterbuck, warthog and bushbucks like to keep to the shore.

Liwonde National Park is 550 square kilometers and was established in 1973. In the north it is bordered by Lake Malombe and the west by the Shire. The best time is from July to October, although it is often very hot in September.

On the way out an accident happens. I underestimate the resilience of a branch and damage the whole side of the vehicle. That hurts, at least it’s only an optical defect.

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At Lake Malawi quite a bit further south we camp at an Englishman at the campground. The lodge is on the lake, with its beautiful beach. We see many different water birds on the shore – herons, ducks, cormorants and enjoy the view of the lake.

In the morning we find millions of dead mosquitoes next to our kerosene lamp. We had not noticed at night, how many there were.

We start again early, want to go to an unknown reserve, the Thuma Forest Reserve, where there will be bushbucks and elephants.

We stop along the way, because we see a tornado. As fast it occurs, it dissolves. We buy fruit at the roadside, we need supplies. We are, of course, an attraction at the street vendors, especially the children are curious, long-distance travelers from another continent come by here not very often.

After a few kilometers we turn off to a gravel road for Thuma Forest Reserve. Beautiful are the round huts. Over fairly good track and wobbly bridges, we come closer to the park.

We drive through the gate, Tara smuggled, but the road gets worse and worse.

And then, a sudden stop. The creek would not be the problem, but then the slope of loose stones. Spontaneously we think of Ethiopia, where we turned back in similar situation, have broken down both front tires and decide to turn. This risk we do not want to have again.

Instead, we end up in Senga Bay, right on the lake.

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We leave this heavenly place, back towards Nkhata Bay at Lake Malawi.

It is known for its beautiful beaches and is a popular tourist destination, especially for those who enjoy swimming, snorkeling, and other water activities.

The town is also known for its vibrant markets, where visitors can buy fresh produce, handmade crafts, and other local products.

In addition to tourism, fishing is an important industry in Nkhata Bay, and the town is home to a large fishing community. The local people are primarily of the Tonga ethnic group and speak a language called Tumbuka.

Overall, Nkhata Bay is a picturesque town with a rich culture and many opportunities for visitors to explore and experience the beauty of Malawi.

The road passes through hilly countryside. I see a stand with bananas. I need to buy some. The variety of different sweet bananas is great.

At another stall, we still buy mangos. A relaxing stay at the lake, is garantueed. We drive through Nkhata Bay.

Under a mango tree we make ourselves comfortable. Hanging laundry in the open air, especially during night should be avoided, because here you get the mango fly, a vile insect that lays its eggs under the skin and in wet clothes. Later the maggots hatch from human skin.

From the campsite we have a good view over Lake Malawi and its beautiful beaches.

Typical are the small silvery fish in Malawi, which are all laid out to dry.

Since our back door has again given up, a mechanic comes with an interesting welder. It is a DIY version, apparently iron cores wrapped with wire. Two wires come into the socket, two wires are the welding bridge. This is something we have never seen before. Seems to work fine and in no time, our door is again welded.

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We have already crossed the border. The transition was easy, as always. First, immigration, then customs, Carnet stamped, but this time we had to visit the veterinarian. He looked at the papers of Tara, all carefully noted and then issued a document, so our dog can enter.

We see for the first time the deep blue Lake Malawi, as we turn to the campsite. It will now be our constant companion for some time, because we will drive along the lake towards the south. Right now we are tired and glad to have found a campsite.

In the morning we set off and drive along the Lake Malawi. We put a few stops to admire this great lake.

Lake Malawi stretches almost across the entire country, with 575 kilometers in length, it is the third largest lake in Africa and reaches a considerable depth of 700 meters.

Here took place an explosion of biodiversity. Here10 percent of all freshwater fish in the world are living and 1,000 different species of fish are believed to exist, some still undiscovered.

Soon we reached Mzuzu, where we check into a Backpackers Guesthouse. There is no diesel, and so we’re stuck for a few days, never mind, anyway we have to organize a tire.

After a few days, we go further into the Vwaza National Park. Over dusty dirt roads, we finally reach the gate. We have to smuggleTara.

The trick is always the same and usually works. I park the car farther away from the gate, so that in case, Tara is barking, nobody can hear her . Alexandra keeps Tara quiet. When the paperwork is done, they open the gate and I’m going through in one go. Has also worked this time.

The camp is idyllic, and we are alone. Promises to be a good 50th Birthday for me.

In the morning we are on a game drive, we see antelopes and warthogs.

The park there is a small lake on whose shores we want to go along. In the lake, a group of hippos are bathing.

We stand near the shore and watch the wildlife. A group of elephants come to the bank.

The 1,000-square-kilometer large reserve is located 29 kilometers from Rumphi. It is open all year and we enjoy after East Africa, the moderate entrance fee of 5 U.S. dollars, which makes a difference to the up to 200 U.S. dollars per day in Tanzania.
Around the lake Kazuni dominate wetlands and grasslands. It is said that 350 elephants live here. There are also buffalo in the park, but these here should be particularly aggressive. The lake is full of hippos and crocodiles.

Since 2010 there is again a lodge with restaurant and tented camps. The Kazuni camp is the campsite with half-open grass huts and open spaces, where can be camped. Camping costs 5 U.S. dollars per person, there are hot showers and toilets.

We enjoy the solitude of the park and the rich wildlife and can still remain a day, although Tara was discovered, the rangers make an exception.

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