overland Kenya

Malindi to Mombasa 1.11.2012 A012


Crossing the border into Kenya

We are exhausted, waiting for the veterinarian. It’s well past 5:00 PM. He was supposed to be there at 4:00 PM. Yes, this is Africa. Waiting is not foreign to us anymore; we’ve grown accustomed to it.

Tara lies exhausted between the two seats. She has grown old. The African sun is taking a toll on all three of us. TIP fees, road usage fees, and the veterinarian still need to be sorted out. At this border, things seem relatively uncomplicated. At the Tanzanian border, the officer accepted that our TIP had expired. However, the veterinarian on Kenyan side gave us a hard time. He wanted to send us back to South Africa, claiming that Tara’s passport was not valid, and we needed an import permit. He suggested that we should return to South Africa and arrange for an import permit there. I found negotiating with the veterinarian futile, so I called our friend Raj. He comes from an affluent Kenyan family, and we befriended him a few years ago. Raj was quick to offer assistance and said he would speak to the veterinarian. I handed the phone to the veterinarian, but it didn’t seem to help. Our friend said not to despair and that he would sort things out with the border officials. After a short while, the veterinarian received a call and promptly stamped the document. The border officials then waved us through.

By this time, it was already dark, a situation I didn’t like because driving at night in Africa is not a good idea. Tired and worn out, we arrived in the darkness at Tiwi Beach, specifically at the Twiga Lodge. In the following days, we spent our time at the Twiga Lodge’s campsite, with occasional trips to shop in Diani.

Tara needed to have her nails trimmed and the veterinarian managed the impossible. And, once again, the exhaust pipe was broken. We received a recommendation for a mechanic named Cowboy. He had a small workshop on a property in Ukunda. All in all, he was a very nice guy and attempted to repair the exhaust. He more or less succeeded.

November 9

In the morning, we left Tiwi Beach and headed towards Malindi. Our friend Raj, who had invited us to stay at his apartment, was waiting for us. So, for the first time, we went down outside the apartment to walk Tara, the manager of the facility saw us and wanted to kick us out immediately. However, when he heard our friend’s name, he became milder.

We celebrated my birthday at the pizzeria in the same building. Since we didn’t have internet access in our friend’s apartment, we decided to move to the camping site. The next morning, we finally moved to the Malindi camping site.

November 11

There was an Italian supermarket near the camping site. We found some good Italian wine and a Mocca machine there. We spent our days working on the computer.

November 19

The computer’s power adapter was broken, and we needed a new one. I took a Tuk Tuk to the city center to find a computer store. The salesperson was friendly, but I wasn’t sure if the power adapter would fit. I negotiated the price a bit, and he assured me that I could return it.

November 29

South African Dave, Jill’s husband, arrived. We met them in Tanzania. Dave came alone as Jill had to interrupt the trip because of her work, but was expected to come to Tiwi Beach in a few days. In the evening, we went to a nearby restaurant for dinner. Dave was in a great mood, and the evening was pleasant.

December 3

Unfortunately, the power adapter didn’t work. There were difficulties with the exchange. Dave accompanied me to the city to exchange it. Since the seller was unwilling to exchange it, we had to call the police. The police arrived, and the issue was resolved.

December 5: Malindi to Mombasa

On December 5, we left Malindi and drove to Mombasa. In Mombasa, we inquired about the repair of the exhaust again.

Eventually, we continued to Twiga Lodge, our beloved place. I spent the next few days repairing the car. I had to go to Mombasa several times to get parts. One day, I was in the workshop for a long time and Alexandra was getting worried. Tara had run away twice, walking to the end of the campsite, where she hyperventilated and sat in the grass. The second time it was already dark when she ran off. Eventually, she was found in the shower area, wagging her tail, so it was hard to be angry. The problem was that every time the neighbor pressed the central locking on the car, it made an unpleasant sound, causing her to run away out of fear. The next day, Alexandra asked the guests to park the car elsewhere since they couldn’t turn off the sound. They were very kind and immediately agreed.

December 16

Jill arrived at Mombasa Airport at midnight. Dave picked her up from there.

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overland Tanzania

Peponi Beach Resort 16.10.2012 A011

16.10.2012

Peponi Beach Resort was our next destination to spend some days at the beach. Today we wanted to leave for Peponi but the battery of the Land Rover was gone. Car batteries in Africa do not last long, as the roads are terrible and the lead in the battery very soon starts to brake. So with the French guy I went to town to get a new one. Departure postponed.

17.10.2012

Finally. We left for Segera. The road was nice and the day was sunny. But everything was running too smooth and shortly after Segera the car just stopped. In Africa there countless motorbike taxis, so I stopped one and went back to the next town. Alexandra and Tara stayed at the truck. At the Hotel Segera (there was a campsite as well) the owner organised some guys to tow us back to the campsite.

With a Matatu, these little Toyota buses for local transport, we reached the Land Rover. The had a towing bar, but nothing to fix to the Matatu. So they took some ropes and fixed it somehow to the Land Rover. As it just went downhill it was not such a big issue and finally we arrived at the Hotel Segera and we towed the car to the campsite.

Although it got dark already the mechanics arrived and thought it would be the ignition coil, which sounded not likely as the one fixed was not really old. So they exchanged but this was not the reason for the brake down. As it was late they left and wanted to come next morning.

I had a look again, to find the reason for the break down and discovered that the points were broken. But we were too tired to fix it and too tired to head to Peponi Beach Resort as driving in the dark is anyway not a good idea so we ordered dinner at the hotel and went to bed.

18.10.2012

So the mechanics appeared early and as I had spare points they fixed it and we drove on to Pangani. The landscape was great and the road terrible. The points were exchanged but the truck did not run properly, so I was afraid that we might break down again. So I knew if we had to stop the engine it would not start again, so I tried to eep it running. And at the gate in front of the Peponi Lodge and campsite we had to stop because the gate was closed and so the Land Rover stalled.

road to Peponi Beach Resort
Road to Peponi Beach Resort

Alex went in to book a campsite and we were lucky as the owner was a real Land Rover enthusiast and towed us with his old Land Rover Series 86 model 1951 to our spot. Very nice campsite!

20.10.2012

Dennis the owner of Peponi Beach Resort told us to help with his mechanics to fix our Land Rover. So we took a taxi to Tanga which was about 30 km away from Peponi on heavy dirt road to get some spare parts. We did not get all the stuff, so we returned back. Dennis told us that the next day we should go together.

21.10.2012

A day for a rest. The driving to Tanga was postponed for a day, so we had time to investigate the beach, which was just marvellous. Unbelievable such beaches really exist and the images you can see in magazines are not just faked images by a talented graphics. So we enjoyed the beach, the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.

Peponi Beach Resort
Beach at the Indian Ocean

The Tanzanian coast along the Indian Ocean is renowned for its stunning beaches, clear blue waters, and diverse marine life. This coastline stretches for approximately 1,424 kilometers (885 miles) and offers a variety of beach destinations and attractions. Here are some notable areas along the Tanzanian coast by region:

  1. Dar es Salaam: Dar es Salaam is Tanzania’s largest city and serves as a major gateway to the country. The city has several beaches, including Coco Beach and Kigamboni Beach. While these beaches may not be as pristine as those in more remote areas, they offer a convenient beach experience for city visitors.
  2. Zanzibar: Zanzibar is an archipelago off the coast of Tanzania and is famous for its picturesque beaches. Some of the most well-known beaches on the main island of Unguja include Nungwi Beach, Kendwa Beach, and Bwejuu-Paje Beach. Zanzibar also has smaller islands, like Mnemba Island, known for its exclusivity and snorkeling opportunities.
  3. Pemba Island: Located to the north of Zanzibar, Pemba Island is known for its lush, green landscape and unspoiled beaches. The island offers a quieter and more remote beach experience compared to Zanzibar.
  4. Mafia Island: Mafia Island is another gem along Tanzania’s coast, known for its marine biodiversity and stunning beaches. Chole Bay and Ras Mbisi are two popular beach areas on the island.
  5. Bagamoyo: Located to the north of Dar es Salaam, Bagamoyo is known for its historical significance as a former slave trade port. It also has beautiful beaches like Coco Beach, making it a popular day-trip destination from Dar es Salaam.
  6. Kilwa: Kilwa is known for its historical ruins and serene beaches along the southern Tanzanian coast. Kilwa Kisiwani and Kilwa Masoko are notable areas to visit.
  7. Tanga: Tanga is a coastal city in northern Tanzania with picturesque beaches, including Tongoni Beach and Peponi Beach, which is known for its coral reefs and marine life.

These are just a few of the many stunning beach destinations along the Tanzanian coast. Each offers its own unique charm and opportunities for relaxation, water sports, and cultural exploration.

22.10.2012

Dennis told us, that also he knew a welder in Tanga who could make us a new exhaust manifold. So the man took measure of the old part and promised to build a new one from scratch. We also got the other missing parts and drove back.

24.10.2012

We picked up the exhaust manifold from Tanga and Dennis and the mechanic fixed it, it fitted quite well.

25.10.2012

Shopping in Tanga and extending the visa. We were going with Matatu to Tanga. So we walked out of the campsite to the dirt road to get a Matatu. So about every now and then they appeared, the road to Tanga is not very busy, so it takes about 20 minutes until a Matatu appears.

Peponi Beach Resort
Campsite at Peponi

At the immigartion the extended our visa only by 11 days, although we explained that our car broke down and that we were waiting for spares to arrive.

When we took the Matatu back to Peponi Beach Resort it was super crowded, normale fit in about 7-9 passenger, but when crowded they put in 20 and more. So it was already full when we left Tanga and on a stop outside the town we saw another one, where two guys took an elder lady and took er and laid her on top of other passengers. Such transport I had never seen before. But ours was nothing better. We did not get a seat of course so we had to stand in the Toyota. But it was so full and shaking, that I could not stabilize myself properly and was shaken with my leg in between the legs of a young lady sitting: I slipped more and deeper between her legs and finally the was no way deeper between her legs. I was sorry as I did not want to sexually harrass her but she just smiled and I said sorry. That s Africa as well.

Peponi Beach Resort and campsite is a real meeting point for overland travel enthusiasts and so we met Dave and Jill from UK and South Africa who were traveling along the East Coast of Africa. The couple was in their mid 50ies and were traveling with a roof tent. We also met a couple with a Land Rover Discovery from UK, but they lived in France, were quite young and already retired as they were fighting in a war I think it was Afghanistan. We also met a couple from Switzerland who were traveling from Switzerland down the West Coast of Africa which is mentally much more difficult, as there is more corruption and travellers are not treated too well by the authorities.

The couple was mentally at its end, they just wanted to go back home and asked if we could drive the car back to Europe. They would have paid any asked price. So it was clear for us that we had to comfort them a little bit and stabilize them. So we we were talking evenings and as we had come down via Sudan and Ethiopia we could ensure them, that this was not too difficult to manage and so they got confidence to continue their trip home at least until Kenya Mombasa to maybe get their a container to ship the truck to Europe.

31.10.2012

Ride to Tanga again to prepare our departure to Kenya. We were running out of visa days, so we did stock up our supplies and went back to Peponi. This time as the Matatus were full full, as the Africans say, we hired two TUK Tuks, knowing the the ride might be pumpy. And as expected it was felt even more pumpy in a Tuk Tuk than in a Matatu, but we had a lot of fun with the drivers and shaken heavily we arrived at the campsite.

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Travel Overland – The Start in Sicily 001

Palermo – Sicily.

Travel overland to Cape Town. We are waiting for the embarkation of our Vehicle to Tunisia. We want to cross the African continent by our camper van. The journey starts in Tunis with final destination Cape town, about 25.000 kilometres through the black continent.

Travel Overland

It is end of Novembre and we have a mild winter evening which is typical for the mediterranean coast. We are already on board the ferry, we – that’s me Eric, my wife Alexandra and our female Labrador dog Tara.

From the ferry we have a splendid view of Palermo. We have to wait until the ship is fully loaded. Here begins our uncertain adventure, our long lasting travel overland. After all the hectic preparations we have time to think about our project. Doubts are cast. “Crazy” is what our friends and acquaintances have called us for travelling by car through Africa. “Dangerous” they said – robberies and kidnappings are common there. Yes, we know that, but a lot of fears and concerns seem to us exaggerated. My only concern is our vehicle. An updated two-wheel drive Citroen van with a lot of electronics under the hood. And soon, my concerns are proved to be correct.

Travel Overland The Ferry

Finally we go. The ferry leaves the harbour towards Tunis. We only had two months preparation time. The car got another gear, equipment was organized and a meeting with other companion travellers had to be scheduled, because we do not travel alone. We are in a group of a total of five vehicles on the overland Africa trip, one of which is two tour guides who will lead us through Africa. But it will change quickly as a lot of things go wrong. We will meet on a campsite near Tunis. On board with us are Heidi and Guido, and Ursl and Hans.

Travel Overland
overland Tanzania

From Dar to Bagamoyo 17.09.2012 A010

We took the Matatu to Dar Es Salaam to buy spare parts for the Land Rover and an external Harddisc. At around noon we returned back to Paradise Guest House. There we spent a quiet night until around midnight. We woke up to hear loud screams and noises like someone had been beaten. The goats were making a loud noise as well. The Guest House owner was screaming loudly, but soon it was quiet again. We went out but could not see anything. In the kitchen the owner couple told us everything was fine. So we wet to bed again.

Dar to Bagamoyo

In the morning I went out and saw Salomon the owner in his garden. I asked him was going on in the night. He told us a guy, who we had known with a girl friend from Austria, had sex with a goat. Salomon caught him and had beaten him with a belt.

In the afternoon a Rasterman named Matunda came to the Lodge. He picked up the trousers of his friend the one who was beaten last night. Obviously he was ashamed for the guy and the guy himself was ashamed as well. He was never seen at the beach again, at least for the time we stayed there.

The gust house was nice but as there stayed a lot of young people a lot was going on. Matunda used one of the rooms as love nest. He was having sex with an American girl. She was screaming and moaning all day loudly, so it was difficult to concentrate to the work.

A French girl had each evening another guy in her room, no it was not a brothel.

20.09.2012 Dar To Bagamoyo

Finally we wanted to get on and headed to Bagamoyo Beach Resort. From Dar to Bagamoyo it was not too far and the route was scenic.

Dar To Bagamoyo
Building new accommodation at the Resort

We had a look at some other campsites before but Bagamoyo Beach Resort seemed the best choice at the moment. The campsite was situated behind the rooms, and there was a clean and good shower and a proper toilet. The campsite had a lot of palm trees on sandy ground so it was qute a nice campsite. We put up our huge tent and the small one. The Land Rover could park in the shade of the palm trees. Quite idyllic.

We walked to the fish market which was directly at the beach with all the dhows, very scenic. Under a huge shelter there were hundreds of small charcoal fires where the ladies fried fish in the pan. For about 1.50 USD you could eat there fried fish with rice – delicious.

In another shelter there were deep freezers and fresh fish to buy. We often got white snapper and a green fish of which we never found out the name. Of course bargaining was obligatory in Africa, everywhere.

Back at the campsite we did some computer work. In the evening we walked to the centre to have some chipsi mayai ( French Fries with eggs) or kuku na chipsi (Chicken with French Fries). Sometimes we ate at the dolphin bar, an open air bar just outside the camp.

Dar to Bagamoyo, Dhow
Dhow at the fish market
18.09.2012 Dolhin Bar in Bagamoyo

In the evening at Dolphin bar we met a French guy who was married to a Tanzanian women from Dar. They had 2 children and were living next to the campsite in a house with garden. He invited us for breakfast in his house.

19.09.2012

We went for breakfast to the couple and had nice talks about everything and learned some deeper insights into Tanzanian life.

19.09.2012

In the afternoon a German guy arrived at the campsite with his motorbike, completely exhausted. When he wanted to put up his tent, he realized that he obviously had lost his tent. Must have been appened on his way to Bagamoyo. So we lent him our small tent and advised him to go to Dar to buy one for his further journey.

German Thomas
Thomas from Germany

When he came back from Dar to Bagamoyo he put up his newly bought tent, but was really disappointed because he had bought a tent for children, so it was much too short for him.

His plan was to go to Zanzibar on a dhow with the fisher men. So the French guy helped him to arrange the trip, and so he was supposed to be at the fish market at midnight to get on a dhow.

20.09.2012

In the morning Thomas completely exhausted appeared at the campsite and told us they were waiting whole night but the fisher man did not show up. So in the morning he gave up.

In the evening he asked us if we could go with him to a restaurant to have some food. He did not want to go alone, as when he went out alone, the girls approached him quite heavily, so he thought that we could protect him.

We agreed and went to Dolphin bar, where we had been before and had known the waitresses already. But it was unbelievable. As soon as they realized he was a single guy they approached him so heavily, showed him their breasts and openly invited him to have sex with the girls. They were not disturbed by us at all. So I told the girls that they should leave him alone and that we just want to eat.

24.09.2012

Extension of our TIP was on the agenda. Not really complicated. First we asked at the customs at the fish market but they told us we need to go to immigration not far from the market. Unusual that immigration had to do it. We entered the lady sent us to the bank to ask the exchange rate. We came back showed her the paper from the bank with the rate. She calculated the fee, we paid, she stamped, done. Matter of minutes.

In the morning we always made a walk to our chapati women for breakfast. The technique was sophisticated and not so easy to cook. But they were delicious and we came here every day.

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Kilwa Masoko and Dar es Salaam South Beach 29.07.2012 A009

After breakfast in Sechele Lodge we continued to Mtwara. But we could not find a proper campsite, although there were nice guest houses but withour surveillance. We headed on to Lindi and stayed in Oceanic Beach View Resort. The resort looked abandoned there were no guests at all except us and it was a bit strange. There was only a security guy at the entrance, hardly any water and the generator for power only worked for a short time. The security bought us some beer and we were just tired of the long ride.

30.07.2012

Next day in Lindi we searched for an ATM and bought filet meat at a butcher. Lindi had seen better time but it is still a typical African town with butcher, small shops and pharmacy. As Lindi was not a delight we headed on to Kilwa and in Kilwa Masoko we checked in at Kilwa Beach view resort. The campsite had good shade and the bathroom was quite ok. The Manager was a British guy and was really nice. He was married to a Tanzanian woman.

31.07.2012

We had to get internet again so we went to the center of Kilwa Masoko. The SIM cards expire after 3 month if you do not use it, so everytime we entered a country again we had to get a new sim card for internet. Things had changed a lot in this 3 years, in the beginning of our trip in 2009 this was not possible as internet was only in the beginning. Now it is really good and fast and even in the remotest areas available but not really cheap as in Europe. So we had always around 100 Euro internet costs per month.

Kilwa Masoko Mangoose
Mangoose at the Campsite

We were looking for Vodacome outlet which we finally found and could buy the sim card and a data bundle. We did some shopping at the market which we love as the markets are great here but a bit far away from the campsite.

01.08.2012

Again to Kilwa Masoko as I had to send a parcel with EMS. Quite an action to get efverything filled out quite well.

02.08.2012

For us it was a working day, so we sat on our computers in the shade and worked. We could imagine worst offices so we were quite happy to work with great view and mild climate.

03.8.2012

We sent for an mechanic again to repair the exhaust manifold again. The problem was that it shaked loose all the time but they did not produce this part anymore, so we had to repair it all the time. This Land Rover model was a South Africa manufatured model with a 6 cyclinder straight Rover engine because of the embargo they had to use what the produced themselves, so they had manufactured a Rover limousine where this engine was used as well but this car production was stopped. For the British V-6 cyclinder models the exhaust manifolds were still available.

10.08.2012

In Kilwa Masoko there was no ATM where we could withdraw money, so we had to drive back to Lindi to the ATM which luckily worked, that was not always the case. So the 80 km one way were not for nothing and we had some chipsi mayai, French fries with eggs like an omlette. So we refueled and went back to Kilwa. Our most expensive withdrawal at an ATM.

11.08.2012

So the internet reception here was rather low so we decided to head on. We even got a reduction for the campsite although we left earlier than planned.It was a pity because the place was quiet and nice and you could have nice walks at the beach with Tara and as almost always we were the only guests at the campsite. We decided to go Sout Beach near Dar Es Salaam. The trip was interrupted frequently by police control but I could always make fun with them, so they never charged us a fine.

First we tried at Sunset campsite and Lodge but they were just too expensive. We tried another one, which was not at the beach and they wanted 10 USD per person, so we drove on to Paradise guesthouse. It was a really simple guesthouse and we got a room with basic shower and toilet for 10 USD. We checked in and stayed at the guest house and made a break from camping.

Paradise Guest House
Paradiese Guest House South Beach

We met Kushan and Grace a quite strange couple, Kushan tried to manage to get a plot to build some touristic infrastructure at the beach and Grace was beautiful so she stood model for Alex to make some stock image.

Grace
Grace

Tara got diarrhea . She was sleeping in the Land Rover as she refused the room. When in the morning we let her out to walk her she had already made her business in the Land Rover. Cleaning for some hours. During the day she stayed with us in the room because she loved the roof ventilator but not in the night.

For working the room was good and we got on well with the things we wanted to do.

02.09.2012

Kushan wanted to buy a piece of land, near Bagamojo so we drove them there. The road was terrible but we managed to get there and visited the field. It was not situated directly at the river so Kushan did not like it much. After a stop at a Restaurant in Dar we headed back to Paradise guest house with a broken spring and damage to the furniture.

04.09.2012

So the damage had to be repaired and a mechanic called Felix came to the guest house to inspect the damage. Points and condensor were exchanged, again exhaust manifold fixed I was rather pissed off already. Our battery had to be charged ( In Africa due to the roads you need a battery almost every year) and a guy brought a jerry can full of petrol.

07.09.2012

Drove to Dar Es Salaam to buy leaf springs. There was a quite good Land Rover dealer which also had parts for the series 3, so I got 2 springs and u-bolts for a good price and drove to Felix in his location where he exchanged the springs. Only late in the evening I returned to the guest house.

I was tired and hungry so we went out to get some chicken and chipsi because we could not cook as I had of course the kitchen with me in Dar.

09.09.2012

Again I drove to Dar Es Salaam to pick up Aluminium boxes for the roof, as the wooden box at the roof was already rotten. Felix fixed it on to the roof rack and so we had 2 new boxes.

Before we had tried to find a local guy who should build such boxes for us. We explained what we wanted, made him a drawing with the measures and waited for a week. When we were ready to pick it up I almost got an heart attack because the box was 20 cm by 30 cm, instead of 120 cm by 60 cm. Obviously the guy could not read and write and just made a box how he thought it could be. That#s why we decided to buy them in Dar as these boxes from this were not suited for our needs.

12.09.2012

We organised locks for the boxes but locks with only 1 key for more locks were not existing, so we got locks with 2 keys, not really practical. For shopping we walked up to the market and had some chapati for breakfast. When we had to buy other things then the daily stuff, we had to go to Dar. As we stayed at South Beach, we had to drive to the ferry and with the ferry we crossed the river and drove on in Dar. But as there were no parkings we often took the Matatu to the ferry, crossed on the ferry as passengers and on the other side we continued with the Tuk Tuk.

ferry from South Beach to Dar Es Salaam
ferry from South Beach to Dar Es Salaam

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About Us

Travel tips based on our experience of overland travel since 2009:

We are a couple middle-aged with our dog Tara traveling Africa. My name is Eric and my wife is Alexandra.

We provide valuable information, which we gathered on our overland trip, which we started in 2009 and mainly in Africa. These travel tips are based on overlanding Africa, first in a camper van for almost 2 years and then with a Land Rover 4×4 for almost 6 years now, which we converted to be able to sleep inside, cook inside, what we occasionally do, especially during the “cold” seasons in Africa. We also provide travel tips for backpackers, if we learn about special information about backpacking.

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Travel to Mozambique

On our travel to Mozambique we were crossing the border easily and we travelled through a National Park more or less straight to the coast. It was already a bit late when we checked in to Hotel Milpark in Chimbio. We got a key for a room for shower and we were happy.

01.06.2012 Beira

In the morning we continued direction Beira, along the road street sellers with different fruits like pineapple, pawpaw, delicious.

First we did not find the campsite Piques but finally we managed to check in and it was directly at the beach. Tara was happy as she likes the sea to have a swim or just looking out at the water.

We pitched up our big tent in the sand and needed to go to Beira to get a internet dongle and SIM for Mozambique.

When we wanted to cook our gas was empty and so we did our cooking with charcoal.

02.06.2012 – 06.06.2012

It is very windy at the coast and we have to put in our pegs again and again. We spent the days with working and enjoying the sea and the beach. Every day we walked to a close by local market to get the things we daily needed and I tested my Portugese which seemed not so bad because the people understood what I wanted to buy. We liked one of the market women where we started to buy regularly and also tasted her yeast baked dumplings which were delicious.

07.06.2012

The night was quiet and the wind did not blow, so we slept quite well. But the morning was not so nice as the dog hunters came with their truck to kill the stray dogs. Their method is rather sad, the dart the dogs with some substance, so that they get slow and with nets they catch them and throw them live onto the truck. Tara has observed all of this and got scared as she knew that the dogs were hurt. She just stayed close to us and a worker from the campsite came to tell us we should take care that she does not leave the camp and might get caught as well.

The days passed by with working and organising things.

29.06.2012

We got our Visas extenden for another month, in total we can stay for 3 month in Mozambique. Friday is always dico night and the music plays until morning. We again could not sleep as it was so loud that you could really feel the vibrations.

17.07.2012

The carburetor problem was still not solved or maybe it came again, anyway. So we got help from Martin a guy that originally originated from Germany and with him we tried to fix the carburetor issue. Whenever we tried to drive, in the beginning it worked very well but after a few kms the problem came again, only little power. So we took out the carburetor and fitted a seal in between hoping it changed something.

We met a guy, a hunter who brought clients to shooting elephants, promised to help us with TIP but he disappeared, also such guys you meet when traveling.

18.07.2012

Again in the garage. Floater of the carburetor was adjusted and again fitted into the vehicle for – I do not know – 100 times already.

Tara had bitten a little dog which was annoying to her. His mouth was swollen but the owner just said he must learn not to nerv other dogs.

In the afternoon we found a place were they refilled cooking gas and they even had one to sell, only a small 2.7 liter one but anyway we had not too much space so we bought it as a second one.

We are still in contact with Christin and Martin who we met in Kubu Island, because they were back in South Africa because they still had things to prepare before they could start their trip through Africa. They will follow us and we wanted to meet somewhere to continue together.

We said good bye to the lady from the market stall as we wanted to leave continue to the North. In the evening we sat together and drank beer and enjoyed the atmosphere in the bar.

19.07.2012

In the morning we drove to Martin the mechanic so adjust the floater again and adjust the cold start, the we made a test ride to shoprite a huge supermarket to do some shopping. We picked up a gas bottle again, had to wait until they finished their lunch break and drove back to Martin to pay our bill but he did not take money as he said that most of the things I did myself anyway.

In the evening we went to the restaurant to pay our bill, but the boss said we should pay when we would come again in the future, knowing that we would leave for Tanzania. Great people here! We slept well but discovered that the storm had damaged our tent a little bit.

20.07.2012 Caia

We left Beira and headed to Caia in the hinterland. The road changed from good to bad and good again. 26 km after Inhaminga a tar road started which was much better to drive. After we pad passed Caia there was a huge bridge across the Zambesi River. After the bridge we checked in at a campsite called Cuacua Lodge a well maintaned site with shower and soap. We just had dinner and went to “bed”.

21.07.2012 Nampula

Our days plan was Caia – Mocuba – Nampula about 770 kilometres. We managed to get as far as Mocuba 366 km and checked in at a campsite. The sites dog was a female and had puppies, so it decided to immediately attack our dog. I got him at his neck and Alexandra could put Tara back in the Land Rover, So no camping at the moment, another 404 km to drive until Nampula.

These are the situations I hate, as you need to plan ahead in Africa, as you never know what could all happen. So when we came near to Nampula is got already dark – an absolutely no go to drive when dark in Africa – and above all the tar road turned into a gravel road. When driving hours for hours you start acting like a robot and you just go on. As we experienced Alexandra could not drive the car as she had not the necessary power in her arms to steer without power steering on gravel roads or in sandy or muddy conditions.

Rather late we arrived in Nampula at the campsite Complexo Montes Nunc. Completely exhausted Taraand I fell asleep whileAlexandra put up the tent.

22.07.2012

In the morning we had a chat with an Norwegian couple also on overland Africa trip. The campsite was beautifully situated, really scenic.

travel to Mozambique

We went to town, got petrol and headed to the Ilha de Moçambique. The weather was really bad and cloudy so we could not take any photos or do any filming. So before the bridge there was a campsite, we wanted to check in to wait for better weather, maybe tomorrow. But the owner did not bargain for the price. It was really too much money and above all three dogs dominated the place so we decided to go on.

So we drove on to Nacale to find a campsite at Beach Diving Center. It was a 4×4 track to get there but was a nice place, run by British Folks. There were 3 dogs as well, so we agreed to let our dog go for a walk away from the campsite. Later we would return later and keep her in the Land Rover. We spent a peaceful night there although it was raining during the night.

23.07.2012 Nacale nach Pemba

On the roadside stalls with fruits , nuts and much more, a dense vegetation wonderful to watch. In Pemba we went to Bush Camp but again they had 5 fierce dogs. So they did not take us in but recommended another campsite and explained us the way there. So we did not find it, used a lot of petrol, so again filling up from the jerry can. The drawing of the lady was not correct. But finally got there and learned that the campsite was still under construction.

Our last option was Russels Place, again for the forth time we passed police control, this time they stopped us. Alexandra was leaning at the side with her head supported by a jacket and was sleeping. So the police got suspicious and after checking her and not waking her up he waved me through, nice guy.

At Russels Place they were very friendly but had lots of dogs as well. As Tara had already her evening walk in the wild, we stayed at this campsite. We fed her, I kept the other dogs away and quickly put her back in the Land Rover.

We put up our tent, Alex cooked some Dinner and we had some beer. Soon we felt asleep. During the night I woke up and realized it was quite hot. So I got up and opened the windows of the Land Rover even more for Tara. So I got the chance to smoke a cigarette und surveillance of the pack of dogs.

24.07.2012

After an extensive walk with Tara we went to immigration to extend our Visa. But they did not do so, which I already had feared in Beira. I was not sure if the information might be wrong. So now we were glad that we had made many kms the last days. It was not so far anymore to the Tanzanian Border.

Next we went to the recommended garage to get our exhaust manifold welded again. I wonder how often it still can be done before it is finished. But it was without success so after a walk with Tara, we returned to the campsite. We had a chat with our neighbours, Germans that had lived in Kenya and invited us for Gin-Tonic. As a sleeping pill – 2 cold beers.

25.07.2012

In the morning back to the garage because on that bad roads we had 2 layers broken of our rear left spring. They took it out, welded them and fitted it back into the Land Rover. Looked good a nice farewell chat with the 80 years old owner and we went back to the campsite. I still tried to tighten the bolts from the exhaust manifold. As it was dirty there so I supposed air gets out there and indeed by tightening the noise got less.

26.07.2012 Pemba -Mocimboa de Praia

Early in the morning we left. The tar road was good, so we proceeded quite fast. Stop Over at a nice campsite next to the road.

27.07.2012

As the campsite had 7 dogs in Mocimboa we went out again to walk Tara. And anyway we needed some money from the ATM. I queued up as many people wanted to withdraw. After a long time it was my turn and I put in everything I needed. But there did not come any money at the ATM, but all others before me got their money. So I tried again and again and nothing. Impossible as there is money on the account. I got nervous and so the people waiting behind me. Then I had an idea and changed the language from English to Portugese and now the ATM gave me money. So bviously it only worked in Portugese language.

Back at the campsite we had a shower with view to the stars, same the toilet and had some dinner under the sky.

28.07.2012

We leave Mocimboa and get until Mueda, not really far but at least a lodge on our way. Checked in at Takatuka and camped in the yard of the Lodge. We had bucket shower, there was no running water.

In the morning in Mueda we quickly did some shopping and we headed to the border. The road was average gravel road. About 100 km before the real border the officer from Mocambique customs checked our TIP. He realized that the officer when entering the country had missed one figure in our car registration. So the TIP was not correct but he made no fuss and let us pass. Now we were heading to the bridge that connects Mozambique with Tanzania. Across the Bridge there id Tanzanian customs.

overland Zimbabwe

Overland Zimbabwe 15.05.2012 A008

Crossing the border to overland Zimbabwe. Completely easy and uncomplicated. Visa fee was 30 USD per Person, Car insurance 55 USD. We had to show Tara’s vaccination certificate. Finished. Originally Zimbabwe was not planned at all, but as we changed our plans and extended our journey nothing could stop us from visiting Zimbabwe.

Vic Falls

We check in in Shoestrings Backpackers in a town called Vic Falls and put up our tent.

18.05.2012

We plan to stay in Shoestrings for 2 weeks as we need to do some work to be able to deliver to a broadcaster. We organized an internet stick, a modem that looks like a USB Stick and a SIM card.

19.05.2012

Made a walk through the city and compered the supermarkets available. Their is even a Spar market but Hypermarket is cheaper. Do some shopping and return to the campsite. At the bar there is a lot folks sitting and drinking, some bands play and everybody has fun. We are tired and go in our tent, Tara prefers to sleep in the Land Rover as the tent she does not like.

21.05.2012

Internet access is rather expensive. Within three days we have used up 54 USD for internet. During the night it is already cold, as in May the cooler season starts here. So we delivered the stuff for the Americans and continued with our new internet Business. Alexandra already sold 47 images this month which shows it is possible to earn a living with stock images.

Preparation for Hwange National Park 23.05.2012

We visited the Vet in Vic Falls because Tara needed her yearly 5 in 1 vaccination, which has to be documented in her travel papers.

We bought a jerry can which we need to overland Zimbabwe because petrol is not always available and headed for Hwange National Park.

Hwange National Park

On the way there we had to pay toll and visited a Land Rover Repair guy which unfortunetaly could not help us. So we checked in at Ivory Lodge, a beautifully located Lodge outside the National Park at a huge water hole which is lit during night and a nice hide away.

When we arrived there we were lucky. Around 80 elephants were present at the waterhole in the late afternoon soon. Simply amazing.

overland Zimbabwe - elephants
Elephants at Hwange NP

So we set up camp and had some dinner. When it got dark we walked to the hide. Just 3 meter in front of us the elephants were digging in the sand for the minerals. You could eben hear them breathing.

24.05.2012

Next morgen we could see them fighting as there was mating season. The others enjoyed a bath and the baby elephants were playing with each other.

We decided to stay here for 2 nights, no need to go into the park, as even charkals could be seen at the water hole.

25.05.2012

So we headed for Binga, campsite Mblizi at Lake Kariba. John from the campsite organized some fish for us which Alex prepared in the evening. Tara still was weak after the vaccination but was already getting better.

26.05.2012

We travelled on but had to return as there was no petrol available, only back at Binga. We returned again but stayed at caravan park half way to Binga. The caravan park was basic, it seemed it was abandoned, buildings were ruins. So we continued to Sikumi Lodge but they had no campsite and gave us the advise to go to caravan park.

27.05.2012

After having tried to continue we ended again at caravan park. The water facilities were basic and it was bitter cold. So we put up tent and hoped for a good night, at least it was quiet and safe but inspite of the sleeping bags rather cold. Now there was a caretaker who provided campfire wood. We barbecued fish with sweet potatoes . The bones we gave in a bag and put it to the sanitary building as there were no waste bins. But in the morning there was not much left, wildlife was hungry as well.

Bulawayo

Our camping chair was broken and we asked the caretaker if he wanted to have it but it must be repaired. He took it and was really happy. Now we left the campsite and headed to Bulawayo. The road was good tar so we made good progress. People were offering their goods at the roadside and busses heavily overloaded with goods and on top people were traveling on the truck.

Again before entering Bulawayo there was a toll station 1 USD for the road. We checked in at the local campsite which was really good even hot water showers. We set up camp and drove to town to do some shopping but in the huge supermarket there were no goods to sell except for cigarettes, one packet for 0.40 USD and some canned food. But we were lucky in a small shop we could buy a new camping chair – how lucky we have been.

Old Ruins of Zimbabwe 28.05.2012

We wanted to visit the old ruines of Zimbabwe, so we got up early and drove to National Monument Old Zimbabwe. The campsite there was nice with shower not so hot and the outside temperature was cold. BUt only 5 USD. So we decided to sleep in the Land Rover for the first time and we realized that it was too narrow. Somehow we managed the night but in the morning I took one of the cupboards and removed it. Now there was space enough.

overland Zimbabwe
Old Zimbabwe

29.05.2012

After coffee we visited the ruins. The ruins were impressive as they were built from stone in contrary to the mud huts the people were living in. We took pictures and videos and went back, acked and after a stop at the filling station we headed to Mutare.

Mutare

Along the road the farmers offered their goods. Everything 1 USD. 12 Clementines or 5 Avacados, 5 Onions or 10 Bananas. Finally we reached Mutare with broken exhaust and clogged carburetor. We got a campsite a little bit outside the town.

30.05.2012

In the morning we realized that petral was running over the tires. A nice guy from the campsite directed us to the police station where there were guys who tried to fix the carburetor.

31.05.2012

In the morning we went to the ATM but no money. At least we got out 20 USD but then was finished. At the customs they demanded an extra 50 USD per person, but we denied and told them that we would get back to Harare to get the visa there. Obviously that helped and they let us pass after paying for car insurance and TIP and some cash for the dogs papers.

TIP means temprary import permit and is available at every border. Europeans belive that they can only travel with carnet de passage, which is rather expensive, complicated and you have to deposit huge amounts for your car at the issuing organisation like ADAC. The truth s that at the border you get this TIP which costs a couple of dollars most of the time under 10 USD and so you can enter and leave the country without carnet.

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overland Botswana

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park 30.04.2012 A007

After a short stop in Maun to buy necessary things, we headed for Moremi National Park.

Moremi National Park
Moremi National Park
Moremi National Park

They have everywhere veterinary fences where officers control, if you do not carry forbidden goods. Also our dogs paper are checked at the fences.This time we were lucky and they just waved us through.

The road was as expected terrible. We arrived at Kaziikini Community campsite and this was situated beautifully. Everywhere tracks of elephants round the camp. Broken tree branches and other traces of elephants.

The waste bins were locked, so there for sure were monkeys as well. Alexandra prepared a delicious dinner – watch her website gesundeeinfachekost.com as well. We made a campfire as well and spent a romantic evening.

During the night we listened to the hyenas.

31.04.2012 Khwai River Concession

Next day early in the morning we continued to Khwai River. The river and its surrounding landscape were just fantastic. From tracks4africa we knew there must be a camsite close which we could not find first but nice Capetownians should us the way. Next to the sandy road everwhere elephants, elephants.. We thought we were in paradise.

Khwai River
Khwai River

Finally we got to the campsite. It was in the middle of the bush. The area is not really a national park but a concession area of the local people there. It had hardly any infrastructure. So we put up our tent. Next to us spring bok were grazing, elephants were scrubbing their back at the trees. Not even 20 meters away from our tent. So there must have been lions and hyenas as well so we made a huge campfire while cooking and eating. Later we went to bed.

I woke up when I heard strange noises next to our tent. Quickly the noise was identified as hippos. They are rather dangerous. When they had passed we decided to sleep in the Land Rover as we also heard lions quite close.

01.05.2012

We left and went back to Maun and stayed at Old Bridge Backpackers for 2 days. We worked on our computers and did some necessary “housework”

02.05.2012

Next to the backpackers there was a vet. Tara’s claws had to be shorten. A good vet so it was no big issue for her.

03.05.2012 Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

Leaving Maun to Gweta. Our next destination should be the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, a huge area of salt pans.. Nature became more dry with every km we drove. We checked in at Planet Baobab Campsite and met a Swiss-German couple who were traveling in a rented camper van in Botswana. Their names Melanie and Florian.

05.05.2012

We spent 2 evenings with them she cut Aexandra’s hair and Alex was massaging her. In the evening we made a huge campfire Florian was baking bread.

07.05.2012

Finally we left for Kubu Island an elevation in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. The track to this island was not easy to find inspite of the navigation device. So what is Kubu Island?

Makgadikgadi Pans
Makgadikgadi Pans

Kubu Island is situated in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and is a little bit elevated than the surrounding area, thus island. If there is water in the pan, it forms a little island with beautiful trees and a campsite.

The tricky part there is to find the right path.If you leave it you might get to a spot where you just sink with the vehicle in the mud under the sandy surface. The truck is lost for ever.

We passed Ntwetwe Pan, lots of Springbok were grazing, and finally reached Kubu Island, a heavenly place with lots of old baobab trees. We were the only ones and set up camp and made a campfire for the evening.

Unfortunetly we had no beer and wine left, so was supposed to become a real dry evening.

I had to check and fix the exhaust because on the way to Kubu Island, it broke. It could be fixed with gumgum a strange stuff to bandage exhaust pipes. It was of course only a temporary solution.

The necessaries were done, now we could go arount and film and take photos.

When we returned to our spot a South African Camper vehicle was parked next to us. I turned out it was Martin and Christin and their dog. They had contacted us via internet about our experiences when traveling with a dog. So we knew each other at least from the internet. Now by accident we met them here in the most remote place on earth.

With them it got a very nice evening and as we ran out of good drinks they offered Gin Tonic all evening. Christin was cooking noodles with meat and Alexandra prepared the fire while we guys exchanged important travel information.

08.05.2012

As we got along quite well we arranged a meeting in the near future. We left the site and drove along the Sowa pan to Nata and finally left Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. There we found a guy to weld our exhaust. We checked in at Nata Lodge Campsite and had to ice cold beer – cheers. We enjoyed the stylish decorated Lodge.

09.05.2012

We continued on a good tar road, but good road in Africa still means 30 km/h because of lots of potholes. In the evening we checked in at Panta Camp but as we wanted to pay they had no change so they said they will come later.

Christin and Martin arrived and we spent a nice eening with them.

10.05.2012 Hunters Road

Our destination was the Hunters Road a dirt road that leads to the North and runs along the border to Zimbabwe.

Hunters Road refers to a strip of land all along the Zimbabwe border of Botswana, stretching from Kasane in the north to just north of Nata in the south. The off-road track along the border runs parallel to the A3 and passes through many hunting concessions, forest reserves and tribal trust land or villages.

Camping within forest reserves are not allowed, but you may drive through these areas. The road condition may vary from season to season, so always inquire before you go, especially after heavy rains.

It s said that it is full of wildlife so we were full of expectations. We left early and forgot to pay the campsite.

The route was scenic and the track not so bad but sandy but the wildlife was not overwhelming. Some birds, a herd of zebras and Kudus could be spotted.

When the track was becoming difficult our fear was that the Land Rover might turn over as our roof rack was loaded heavily. And it happened that when declining a river bed that we almost turned over.

We had big Zarges Boxes on the roof rack which were packed full so the weight on the roof was a lot of kgs.

We followed the river bed that is why it can only be traveled in dry season. Finally we arrived in Kasane. In Kubu Lodge we made camp directly at the River Chobe. When we checked in and paid for camping, we realized we had not paid for the last one.

In the afternoon Christin and Martin arrived as well. They had seen lots of elephants. They were lucky.

11.05.2012

The days were fleeting, during the day we had to work on our computers. In the evening we sat together with Christin and Martin. Every day we prepared perfect dinner and had delicios wine.

14.05.2012

Martin had a Kanu on board and we both guys wanted to try it at Chobe River. It was an amazing trip, but the River is tricky but we managed to get back to the campsite in one piece.

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overland Botswana

Travel to Botswana 09.01.2012 A006

In the morning I organised with Vital the owner of Oppi Koppi the pilot project for a donkey tour. The plan was to drive to a outlook to enjoy the sunset. There guests should have sparkling wine and some snacks. This was planed as a tourist attraction and I had to make a video for the website of the Lodge.

We managed to make the tour to film the donkeys and the cart and of course the sunset. It was a really nice evening. At night we all drove to the Lokasi, the hometowns of the native Namibians who are living there. The workers of the Lodge also lived there.

It was a nice evening we danced at the loud music of the Namibians and had fun with them.

Next day a Friday we had dinner with Vital, Marianne, Rick and Anne. Kind of a farewell dinner as our departure was getting closer. We packed everthing and spent the weekend at Andrea and Volkers place. I used the time to edit the videos for Vital and Andrea and uploaded everything to their websites.

On 02.04.2012 we finally left Kamanjab again and headed to Grootfontein. In Grootfontein we checked in at a campsite that belonged to a guy from Austria. He kept a Lion and lots of Ostriches at his farm.

Grootfontein Ostrich TRavel to Botswana
Grootfontein Ostrich

Next day we travelled to Botswana again to Tsumkwe and Dobe. Before the border we stayed at a wild camp under marvellous Baobab Trees. Some of the San people came to get the camping fee and we spent a perfect night near the border.

Heading to the Border

Next morning we went up early as we had to leave Namibia exactly this day because our Visa expired. The alternative would have been to go to jail. So we were in a hurry and took the wrong path and after a bend we ended in a pool. Luckily only with the front wheels so with reduction gear and all wheel drive we could free ourselves.

Just in time we reached the border, The crossing was easy without hassle and we headed direction Maun. They were not issuing visas at this border it was just a mud hut. So we had to get to Maun to immigration.

Difficult Road Conditions after the border

The sandy road was difficult to drive and we managed this time not to get stuck. As it was so difficult, we underestimated time and it was already dark when got to the tar road. Not only we underestimated the time but also petrol consumption. It must have been around 40 litres per 100 km. We ran out of petrol in the middle in the night. Somewhere in the nowhere about 30 km before Maun.

I took the spare jerry can and was hitchhiking in the middle of the night. A car stopped,Tara and Alexandra stayed at the truck. I was bargaining the price to take me to Maun to the filling station and back to the car. So we had no cash left and I had to get an ATM as well. The 4 guys drove me to Maun to an ATM. T hen to the petrol station where I filled the jerry can and they were supposed to bring me back.

But they did not follow the main road and turned off in a strange neighbourhood. Finally we entered the courtyard of a house. I was scared like hell and tought the worst would happen right now in the dark. The guys went out of the car and disappeared. After a while another one came back and finally drove me back to Alexandra and our car.

I paid the guy and quickly topped up the petrol. Late we drove on to Island Safari Lodge at around 2 o’ clock in the night. Exhausted, dirty we killed a bottle of hard spirits and fell asleep in our new home the Land Rover 109

Again in Maun

Travel to Botswana
Island Safari Lodge – Campsite

We had to go to Maun to get our visas, but we only got 45 days instead of 90 days. We were already in Botswana within 365 days, so for this period we only could get 45 more days. We had already spent time in the country. At the ATM we withdraw money but the amount possible per day was 2000 Pula. Not really much if you need a bigger amount.

Our daily routine consisted of writing texts, working on the computer, translating into English and so on, as we had to push our new job.

From Rick and Anne we had a tent, which was fixed to the Landrover to spend some shelter but the zipper was already broken, so we had to get a new tent. As we now had to work on our Laptops while traveling we needed some shelter to work. As it was windy the fine sand was everwhere and this would for sure damage the laptops over time.

So we looked in Maun and at the Indian Lady we months before had bought the coffee pot we now found a rather huge tent for a good price. Back at the campsite we put it up and were quite satisfied with our purchase.

We had to get tires: 06.04.2012

Next new tires were on the agenda. So our dimension was not so common but we found a place where we could buy Bridgestone 750 R16 4 pieces for 6200 Pula. A perfect fit for our Land Rover.

And we had to get a power generator: 07.04.2012

As we now had to work on computers and electricity was a big issue in most of the countries, we decided to buy a generator for 220 Volt. Nothing to find but we found a laptop bag, as mine was already done. Walking further we came to a quarter with lots of Chinese sops and there we found a generator for around 40 Euros. At the camsite we just tried it and were happy that it worked but not very smooth, I found out later that you need to mix the petrol with 2-stroke oil.

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Overland Travel Tips for Africa

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