We head for Queen Elizabeth National Park. The transport sector in Africa is its own thing. Whether a vehicle is overloaded, no one here is interested. They load all the space available and more, or in other words,it is loaded short before the leaf springs breaks. To optimize matters on the top they pack a few passengers, so that the vehicle is also utilized really well.

What in an emergency brake with the people above would happen, I do not dare to imagine.

We again cross the equator, a plain concrete ring with inscription: “Equator”, marks the spot.

Tara is worried because her mum has moved too far from the van. Or is it the buffalo that concerns her.

A transit route leads through the national park, we turn off onto a dirt road that leads through the park, but we do not have to pay for that road.

We stop at a shallow lake and stay a little bit. Perhaps animals come to its shores. But we have no luck and drive on.

Again and again we see buffalos, a dangerous animal, because if they live in herds and feel disturbed, they circle a vehicle and attack. And then we’re lucky. A herd of elephants with young animals on the roadside.

They march parallel to the road, we follow them slowly. The elephant population in Queen Elizabeth National Park formerly included more than 4,000 animals, but decreased rapidly in the 80ies and shrank to just 200 animals. To date, the stock has recovered to about 3,000 elephants.

But eventually they disappear in the dense shrubbery.

At the roadside a waterbuck. We do not want to scare him, and remain within a reasonable distance. It does not move. We drive closer, but it stays without fear, it is used to cars. And even closer, incredibly, it stays. Now it is almost in reach of our arms. We do not want to confuse and drive on.

We drive to the lake and discover an elephant swimming in the evening twilight. We spend the night at the Hippo Lodge and enjoy a spectacular sunrise. So the morning coffee taste even better.

The Hippo Lodge is located on a hill overlooking the lake. It is not really a lodge, but a tented camp. That means big tents are set up permanently, with beds and bedding, the luxury version even has a bathroom and a toilet. These tents are rented like hotel rooms by safari companies.

We leave the quiet village early, perhaps we see on the way some animals. The people in the village are also already gotten up, we see little fires burning and hear rattling dishes.

Only some 100 meters outside the village a herd of elephants crossing the road. This is called luck. We stop and watch.

And then, on a hill, we see a strange spectacle. Two young elephants at play. We have never seen that before.

We leave Queen Elizabeth National Park and cross the Kazinga channel that connects Lake Edward with Lake George and divides the park into two parts.

On the edge of the national park on a hill we found a small campsite. Lovingly it is created, with round huts and an open rondavel, from which there is a wide view of the park. Tara is pretty bad, when we walked her in the morning she was close to a bush, so she might have been bitten by a snake or a scorpion or a spider, we do not know, but as she feels really bad we need a vet, either in the capital, Kampala, or must return to Kenya. Tomorrow we will decide where to go.

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A crater lake is still on our agenda. To Lake Kasenda a narrow forest path leads to the campsite. It is on the level of the water surface, which will be fatal as we soon will see.

Lake Kasenda is a crater lake located in western Uganda, in the Kasese District. It’s one of the most scenic crater lakes in the area, with crystal clear waters surrounded by lush vegetation and rolling hills. Visitors to Lake Kasenda can enjoy a variety of activities, such as hiking around the lake, bird watching, and fishing for tilapia and catfish. The lake is also a popular destination for photography and nature lovers, with breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.

Again, this lake is idyllic. The slopes of the extinct volcano are densely covered with tropical vegetation. We enjoy the peace and quietness here and take a walk along the shore, for a narrow path leads along the lake.

In the night it rained, however, and heavily, which has transformed the black volcanic soil into soft soap.

We have massive problems, despite sand ladders to get out of the crater. The van always slips sideways off the track.

With stones in the lane, we try to stabilize the van. And then it happened. The van slipped into a tree and damaged the bodywork on the roof. Bad luck, but our problem is still unresolved. Only with the help of eight boys who held to stabilize the van, we manage our escape.

We are glad to have tar under the wheels again. Our next destination is Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Overall, Lake Kasenda is a hidden gem in western Uganda that offers a tranquil and scenic escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. It’s a great place to relax, unwind, and immerse yourself in the natural beauty of Uganda.

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Lake Nkuruba is our next stay. It is close to Fort Portal and many other crater lakes. Uganda is known for its diverse natural beauty, including its many crater lakes. These stunning lakes are formed in volcanic craters, and offer a unique and picturesque destination for tourists.

The trail winds through villages and fields, on the crater Nyabikere we stay in the Crater Valley Lodge.

We’re just in time for sunset. Golden sunlight reflected on the surface of the crater lake.

We still want to visit Lake Nkuruba. It leads through banana groves in hilly landscape. The area consists of more than 40 lakes, all of which have a different color.

At the Community Campsite we stop. The campsite is situated on the edge of the crater and allows good views into the crater. The crater rim is covered with rain forest. The lake is not very large, perhaps 100 by 100 meters. Impressive is the background noise. Crickets, birds, and occasionally you can hear the call of a colobus monkey.

From the campsite, we can observe a group of colobus monkeys. They are eager to pick the fleas from the coat. Social grooming, this is called, is a sign of confidence in monkeys and also serves to strengthen social relationships.

Funny to watch are their ​​tassel-like tails. The black – white fur serves as camouflage. In the forest and the forest canopy, where light and shadow contrasts are hard, they are hardly exempt from the distance and well camouflaged.

We observe these fascinating creatures for a while until we are invited by the head of the campsite to watch a dance performance of the village youth.

add_photo_alternate The next day we go from here to the so-called “roof of the world”. There is a hill from which one can overlook several crater lakes.

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We continue alone into the Congo basin, we want to Semliki National Park. We have a small mountain ridge ahead with wonderful landscape, of which one has good views over the Congo basin. From here one can see into the Republic of Congo.

A few kilometers later we reach the ranger station. We hire a guide who takes us to the hot springs. Immediately we spot Colobus monkeys.

The Semliki Park consists ​​of genuine lowland rainforest, with tropical humid and very hot climate. Between 1997 and 2001 the park several times had to be closed to the public, because anti-government rebels were staying in the area and from there, attacked villages and settlements.

Therefore, prior to a trip to the Semliki, always check the latest security situation.

Semliki National Park, a hidden gem nestled in western Uganda, is a captivating haven of biodiversity and natural wonders. Covering an expansive area of about 220 square kilometers, this relatively lesser-known national park boasts a diverse range of ecosystems, including tropical rainforests, savannah grasslands, and hot springs. Its rich biodiversity, unique geological features, and cultural significance make it a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike.

The park is located in the Semliki Valley, which is part of the Albertine Rift, an area known for its exceptional biological diversity. The Albertine Rift, characterized by its steep escarpments and deep valleys, is home to numerous national parks and reserves, making it a crucial conservation area for Africa’s wildlife.

Semliki National Park is bordered by the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the west and the Rwenzori Mountains National Park to the south. This strategic location provides a vital corridor for wildlife migration between Uganda and the neighboring countries, contributing to regional biodiversity conservation.

The park’s most prominent feature is the Semliki River, which meanders through the valley and serves as a lifeline for the diverse flora and fauna that inhabit the park. The river’s banks are lined with dense gallery forests, creating an ideal habitat for a variety of animal and plant species.

Finally we reached the hot springs and the hot steam can already be seen from far. With approximately 106 degrees Celsius, the water comes out of the ground, two springs are in the nature of geysers. Of course we are told the common story of boiling eggs in the springs which is said the people at the weekend come here for picnic and boil eggs.

To get a better overview, we climb a wobbly tower. Up from here, you can see far into the country and the steam of hot springs. The rest of the day, we relax on the nearby idyllic campsite.

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We stay overnight at Kibale Forest National Park. There is a mountain and rain forest system with enclosed swamp and grassland sections. The trees can grow up to 55 meters. The park has one of the highest primate densities in the world.

We are enthusiastic about army ants marching like soldiers in a row on the road. We hoped to see monkeys, but as much as we scan the trees, nothing to see.

A little disappointed we leave Kibale Forest National Park. At the reception, we stop to pay for the night. The receptionist is very nice and said she had already heard them. We step out of the building and we actually hear some. And suddenly there’s a rustling in the branches. A colobus monkey.

The monkeys are curiously watching us from the treetops. They are beautiful animals, with long-haired fur -black and white, they look like forest ghosts.

In Fort Portal we stay one more timeovernight and today we say goodbye to Steffen and Steffi. They were already three years on the road and have to go back. They want their car ship from South Africa to Europe, but until then, there are still some thousand kilometers.

We sign on the car and we hugged, it was nice to travel with them, they had come through West Africa, a hard part of Africa, we believe they are already a little tired of Africa.

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Sunset on Lake Albert. Idyllic. We find a place to stay in a guesthouse. Camping on the lawn, showers provided for us in a bungalow. With a sundowner we enjoy the atmosphere.

In the morning we continue another 100 kilometers, we will again stay at the Albert Lake. The track is not bad, so we should arrive by early afternoon.

Over a mountain range we come down to the level of the Lake Albert. The pass looks harmless, but it is difficult to drive .The area is sparsely populated, so we might as well camp free, but first we want to try it in a lodge.

Through tall grass we drive on a hill, where a hotel is signposted. We can camp in front of the hotel, get electricity and hot showers.

A short time after our arrival we get visitors. Two guys in uniform came to us and asked for our passports. We could not find out wheter these is Police, Customs or Military. They asked what we are doing in this remote area and we explained that we are on a trip from Europe to South Africa. I am not sure if he believed this but handed over our passports and left. The Hotel owner had no clue why they were here and how they found out about us in such a short time.

The view is wonderful. We’re looking at a traditional village, no new construction disturb the visual appearance, in the background Lake Albert.

The next day should bring us to Fort Portal. But the jungle track does not look for fast driving. In the short term, we doubt whether we are correct, but there is no other way.

The jungle track gets narrow and overgrown, we consider what we do with oncoming traffic, let’s see if we meet other vehicles at all. It is always wet and we start to slip a bit.

After a few hours we made it. We turn onto a wide track. On both sides tea cultivation, as far as the eye can see.

We have not heard about tea cultivation in Uganda, did never try it, therefore we do not know how it tastes. In any case, it is interesting to look more closely at the plant.

The roads in Uganda are generally quite good, because they are often repaired. With great Caterpillars the loose material is pushed away from the road and the surface is made ​​flat, then it is smooth and allows speeds up to 100km / h.

We stop again, this time to buy bananas. The fruits here are small and very sweet taste and taste really like bananas, totally different than in Europe. The seller can not take it to carry the goods up to the car. We say goodbye and go further.

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We find out quickly from Kampala, our destination is Murchison Falls National Park, but until then we will need a few days. On perfect tarmac road it is about 200 kilometers to Hoima, the last major town before the tar changes into a red soil road.

On this road it’s about 100 miles to the National Park, not to manage on one day. Never mind, the scenery is beautiful and it always interesting on the road. Sun is setting and we need a place to sleep. Supposedly there will be one in a few kilometer. We are skeptical, then surprised, that there is in the middle of the jungle a small community campsite.

The next morning we head back a bit, and soon we can see Lake Albert in the distance.

In the middle of nowhere a bit of tarmac appears, the joy is great, but lasts not for long, because the piece is just 800 meters long and probably served to mimimize the mud on this steep part that would make the road impassable.

The last meters to the campsite it leads through small villages and tall grass, the site is simple, pit latrine and bucket shower with cold water. The location is beautiful. We spend a funny evening with plenty of beer, tomorrow Alexandra and me want to leave early to the Murchison falls, Steffen and Steffi will take care of Tara, she is not allowed into the National Park.

The track is good and we are progressing fast. We see no animals, but once we stop, the vehicle is covered with tsetse flies, the carriers of sleeping sickness. Window remains closed, indoors it is suffocatingly hot, we are glad that Tara was able to stay at the campground.

The view of the Nile and Murchison falls is gigantic, the Nile flows restless till it is squeezed through a seven meter wide gorge and plunges 43 meters into the depths.

The spectacle is tremendous. The park owes its existence to an epidemic of sleeping sickness in the region, where 13,000 square kilometers had to be evacuated, and long remained deserted. This kept the area untouched and was later declared a national park.

The tsetse flies are nasty and we leave, we still want to go to the Nile, where there is a ferry across the river.

It connects two parts of the park. However, it can not be used free of charge. Our trip was short lived, we pick up our friends from the camp and head towards Fort Portal. Also not to make in one day.

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After a few days we go on to Kampala. But before we need beef, a kg costs about 5 U.S. dollars. Steffi and Alexandra go shopping. At a stall there is a lovely piece of meat hanging, not a beef filet but this meat is very good for steak as well. Since Egypt, we know where the steak is in the cow.

We prefer to buy from the street butchers over supermarkets, in spite of flies because the meat is fresh and is sold very quickly. Alexandra is surrounded by small children, the most stare at her long blond hair.

At another stall, they organize vegetables – locals watching the scenery, white people rarely buy at these stalls. We cross over Bujagali dam, which was built in 2007, with electric power plant and 30-meter high dam, because we want to the so-called source of the Nile. After the bridge Police, of course they are curious, look at every thing in detail, but are friendly. They let us drive on without hassle.

The construction of the dam has changed a lot. It was a greater intervention in the ecosystem and the rapids have changed. The rafting companies will have to move downstream.

Behind the dam, we turn off, and Steffi and Alexandra are positioned in front of the source of the Nile, for a photograph.

Here, where the Nile emerges from Lake Victoria, the source of the White Nile is supposed.

In Kampala, we check in at Red Chilli camp. Curious is the giant pig that will even get bigger by Steffi’s food gift. It is the attraction here, and every guest wants to pet it.

Kampala is a surprisingly modern city, with a variety of shopping centers, mostly South African chains, like Shoprite have settled here.

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Next destination: “Bujagali Falls”. In the morning we start early. We only have tarmac ahead, so it should go fast. We leave Mount Elgon. In the nearest major town we need a money exchange and a SIM – card.

We wander around a bit, we need a bank to change our Kenyan Shilling to Uganda Shilling, and the SIM – card for the telephone.

Soon everything is done, shopping done and we are back on tour.

We want to buy fruit and vegetables, stop at the left side, because we drive here on the other side of the road as in Europe, and look what the stands offer.

Most traders come to the car and want to sell their goods. That is always turbulent and loud, everybody cries through the crowd, but it is always great fun.

Of course, we must bargain, the courtesy in East Africa demands that. So we play the game and in the end it is usually a trade, once you make a bargain, other times you will loose. This is Africa.

In another city, we stop to organize charcoal. It is sold on the roadside, usually in big 20 kg bags, but you can also have smaller portions.

Steffi and I look at the different lots, there are different sized portions and the price does not seem to correspond with the amount offered. We select two portions that provide the best price / performance ratio. No, Africa is not logical.

After a short time we are in Jinja, at the Bujagali Falls and find a great campsite, next to the rapids.

Tara relaxes immediately, for her it was a long day.

Actually, they are rapids and not waterfalls, which the Nile forms coming from Lake Victoria. Very popular here is rafting and some lodges and campsites offer rafting. On the shore, there are numerous water birds, we will stay here for a few days.

Spontaneously a group of young people starts making music and dancing.

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Next Sipi Falls: Already, Mt. Elgon in sight, a comfortable ride of 1 hour on a rather good road.

But we are too optimistic, a local motorbike stopped us to tell that the road is blocked for a few weeks as a landslide has swept away the road and we have to take a detour of 200 kilometers to Sipi Falls.

The road is more than bad, and it looks like we will reach Sipi Falls not before midnight. That means many hours of driving at night, what you should not do in Africa.

The road is not marked on any map and so we stop and ask a truck driver to see if we are still on the right track.

The road is fine the driver says he thinks probably the direction is fine but not the road conditions. Promptly and as expected, we come into the night, horrible driving around.

We have left early in the morning at around 6.00 and were driving on bad road, crossing rivers where there was no road at all, passing a swamp, no stop, only pee break and we were not even sure if we are on the right track. We came through landscape, where we were sure, never ever had here a foreigner been, as people (there were a few) were starring at us, as we would come directly from the moon. So it started to rain, which made things not better and above all it started to get dark.

The road got muddy and the sight was almost none, but you can not believe, there were people on the road, which we hardly could see, so really dangerous. We were tired and wanted to stay over night and continue the next day, but it was immposible to leave the road as everywhere was swamp, and we could not sleep in the middle of the road. Later in the evening we realized that we were on the right track and a few kilometres before Sipi Falls the tarmac began. Exhausted we arrived in Sipi Falls after midnight. AND hungry.

Alexandra is always the good soul and started to prepare steaks and potatoes for all of us. Hectolitres of beer let us slip into the night.

It was not until the early morning we can see where we landed. The view from the campsite to the Sipi Falls is gorgeos.

60 meter the water masses plunge into the depths. The complex of waterfalls consists of four separate falls that lie at 1770 meters above sea level. The campground is nicely laid out, with tropical plants and washing huts in traditional style. We do not want to lose time and jump into the hiking shoes, a mountain guide is also on hand,who leads us down to the falls.

The descent is fierce. Over narrow wooden ladders with ropes to hold we climb down a rock wall, just in the style of the Austrian mountains.

The guide carries my tripod, I am absolutely thrilled with the guy. Again and again we meet people who are climbing with heavy loads on the head. Tough people in Uganda.

A woman balanced a bundle of wood on the head, unbelievable. Soon we arrived at the foot of the falls. A great spectacle. Breathtaking.

The rise, however, was ​​more difficult than expected. Exhausted we reached the top and we cook immediately. Of course, we have beef filet, what else. We men are in paradise. The women cook, we sleep. Nothing to complain about.

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