In the morning I organised with Vital the owner of Oppi Koppi the pilot project for a donkey tour. The plan was to drive to a outlook to enjoy the sunset. There guests should have sparkling wine and some snacks. This was planed as a tourist attraction and I had to make a video for the website of the Lodge.

We managed to make the tour to film the donkeys and the cart and of course the sunset. It was a really nice evening. At night we all drove to the Lokasi, the hometowns of the native Namibians who are living there. The workers of the Lodge also lived there.

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It was a nice evening we danced at the loud music of the Namibians and had fun with them.

Next day a Friday we had dinner with Vital, Marianne, Rick and Anne. Kind of a farewell dinner as our departure was getting closer. We packed everthing and spent the weekend at Andrea and Volkers place. I used the time to edit the videos for Vital and Andrea and uploaded everything to their websites.

On 02.04.2012 we finally left Kamanjab again and headed to Grootfontein. In Grootfontein we checked in at a campsite that belonged to a guy from Austria. He kept a Lion and lots of Ostriches at his farm.

Next day we travelled to Botswana again to Tsumkwe and Dobe. Before the border we stayed at a wild camp under marvellous Baobab Trees. Some of the San people came to get the camping fee and we spent a perfect night near the border.

Heading to the Border

Next morning we went up early as we had to leave Namibia exactly this day because our Visa expired. The alternative would have been to go to jail. So we were in a hurry and took the wrong path and after a bend we ended in a pool. Luckily only with the front wheels so with reduction gear and all wheel drive we could free ourselves.

Just in time we reached the border, The crossing was easy without hassle and we headed direction Maun. They were not issuing visas at this border it was just a mud hut. So we had to get to Maun to immigration.

Difficult Road Conditions after the border

The sandy road was difficult to drive and we managed this time not to get stuck. As it was so difficult, we underestimated time and it was already dark when got to the tar road. Not only we underestimated the time but also petrol consumption. It must have been around 40 litres per 100 km. We ran out of petrol in the middle in the night. Somewhere in the nowhere about 30 km before Maun.

I took the spare jerry can and was hitchhiking in the middle of the night. A car stopped,Tara and Alexandra stayed at the truck. I was bargaining the price to take me to Maun to the filling station and back to the car. So we had no cash left and I had to get an ATM as well. The 4 guys drove me to Maun to an ATM. T hen to the petrol station where I filled the jerry can and they were supposed to bring me back.

But they did not follow the main road and turned off in a strange neighbourhood. Finally we entered the courtyard of a house. I was scared like hell and tought the worst would happen right now in the dark. The guys went out of the car and disappeared. After a while another one came back and finally drove me back to Alexandra and our car.

I paid the guy and quickly topped up the petrol. Late we drove on to Island Safari Lodge at around 2 o’ clock in the night. Exhausted, dirty we killed a bottle of hard spirits and fell asleep in our new home the Land Rover 109

Again in Maun

We had to go to Maun to get our visas, but we only got 45 days instead of 90 days. We were already in Botswana within 365 days, so for this period we only could get 45 more days. We had already spent time in the country. At the ATM we withdraw money but the amount possible per day was 2000 Pula. Not really much if you need a bigger amount.

Our daily routine consisted of writing texts, working on the computer, translating into English and so on, as we had to push our new job.

From Rick and Anne we had a tent, which was fixed to the Landrover to spend some shelter but the zipper was already broken, so we had to get a new tent. As we now had to work on our Laptops while traveling we needed some shelter to work. As it was windy the fine sand was everwhere and this would for sure damage the laptops over time.

So we looked in Maun and at the Indian Lady we months before had bought the coffee pot we now found a rather huge tent for a good price. Back at the campsite we put it up and were quite satisfied with our purchase.

We had to get tires: 06.04.2012

Next new tires were on the agenda. So our dimension was not so common but we found a place where we could buy Bridgestone 750 R16 4 pieces for 6200 Pula. A perfect fit for our Land Rover.

And we had to get a power generator: 07.04.2012

As we now had to work on computers and electricity was a big issue in most of the countries, we decided to buy a generator for 220 Volt. Nothing to find but we found a laptop bag, as mine was already done. Walking further we came to a quarter with lots of Chinese sops and there we found a generator for around 40 Euros. At the camsite we just tried it and were happy that it worked but not very smooth, I found out later that you need to mix the petrol with 2-stroke oil.

Overlanding Botswana overview

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We drove back to Namibia and entered via Dobe to finally arrive again to Oppi Koppi, because our camper van was still there.

Destruction of the camper van by customs

The rancher Robi wanted to have the car but was supposed to organise the papers, but soon we learned that he could not get the papers done and the only option seemed to destroy the van in Namibia. Lars a German guy who operates a Unimog garage in Kamanjab, organised the customs officer from Otiwarongo.

Before we took out the furniture and all the stuff which we needed to build up the Land Rover and which we could still use.

The three officers came and instead of cutting the vehicle in half which would have been useful for Lars so he at least could have utilised the car, the officers demanded that the bulldozer has to damage the vehicle heavily and after that it should have been burned.

Alexandra was very sad as the was our wedding vehicle and travel companion for years. At least Lars could safe the seats, tires and some spares and the bulldozer hit the car heavily and finally it was burned and the some could be seen far into the landscape.

We had to pay the officers 1200 Nam Dollar and they should send us the papers of destruction. As the vehicle was traveling on a Carnet the passage, which was issued by ADAC, we had to get our deposit back. When we got the papers we sent a copy to ADAC in Germany with DHL to speed up the process. But after we had sent it they wanted also the expired Carnet, so we had to go again to Windhoek to DHL to send the papers to Germany. After 5 weeks we finally got the deposit back.

Our dog Tara got a new infection with tick fever, so we had to get to the Vet again to pick up her medicine.

As our distributor of our videos stopped operating and owed us around 50.000 Euro, we slowly ran out of money. But we had to continue to Botswana as our Namibia Visa expired, so Vital told us we could pay for the expenses from Botswana.

Building the Land Rover for the next years to come

The time went buy and with Vital we welded a roof rack for the Land Rover and even managed to coat it with zinc. The furniture from the van we fitted in the Land Rover and made also new parts from wood to make it our home for the next years to come.

Rick and Anne were living on the Lodge as well, as the campsite belonged to them until they sold it to Vital and Marianne but kept the right to build a house on the compound which they did and lived there already for a couple of years. They were traveler like us, traveling all over the world but were now in their late 70ies and no longer planed to do longer trips, so they gave us their awning as a present, which we fixed to the Land Rovers roof rack.

We were lucky as we could put all our stuff from the camper van in a safe shelter at Rick and Vital and could use Vital’ s tools and garage to make everything fitted into the small room the Land Rover provided compared to the van. Some thing we gave as a present, because simply we had no space left.

Some of the evenings we spent with Rick and Anne and were talking about their log journeys and how they came here.

Himba People – a visit of a Himba village

There was another couple next to Kamanjab that operated a farm – Andrea and Volker, German speaking Namibians. As the Internet was broken at Oppi Koppi they invited us to their place to use their internet, as we had to find a new job as our German distributor did not pay any more our videos and owed us quite a lot of money, so we basically had to find a source of income to continue our trip. So we decided to try to get digital nomads as it nowadays is called. So things had to be built up, where we needed internet access of course.

In the evenings we sat together with Andrea and Volker and had a lot of fun and drinks. Andrea was an artist as well and did some painting on the Land Rover. Although our distributor crashed I wanted to finish the documentary which consisted of 13 Episodes. So on the farm of Andrea there was living a tribe of Himba people which we should document and make a little video clip for Andreas Website.

Next morning we started to visit the Himba village with Andrea and we could make our videos and photos, which Alexandra was allowed to upload to image agencies in the states to earn money with the images.

We are impressed that the Himba people could maintain their original lifestyle. They are a pastoral people, who keep cattle and goats. They live in mud huts and are self catering. With the production of souvenirs, especially the making of necklaces, they earn cash to use for the purchase of goods from the grocery store, because barter is not available in supermarkets.

In the morning, the women meet and hold a palaver. Thereafter is cooked. On the open fire they prepare Millipab, the traditional corn porridge. This is the main food of the Himba. A striking feature of the women is their hairstyle. The hair is smeared with butter and Oka, which allows interesting hairstyle creations. The reddish color of the body and luster of the skin comes from the butter fat with which they rub the body and the reddish color comes from iron oxide ground stones. It is only the beauty and has nothing to do with insect repellent, as suggested in many cases.

Fetching water often is the task of young people or children. The water is often brought from distant places, dangerous in the bush. After sleeping over noon, life comes back to the village.

They meet again to gossip, exchange information and discuss problems. he afternoon is also the singing, dancing and games. Hopefully the Himba people can still preserve their life style over the next centuries.

Unrest among the chicken. A chicken is captured and accurately examined. It might have parasites. The children gather curiously around the chicken. Chicken are part of the diet of the Himba people, not only as an egg supplier. This time the chicken was lucky, it does not land in the soup pot.

In the evening we sat again together with Andrea and Volker and had some drinks. But we still had to drive back to Kamanjab in the night. It had rained a lot and little pools were forming the gravel road back to Kamanjab.

First Pool, second pool the water and mud came into the car next to the gear levers and the stalled. After lots of trials the engine started again but with terrible noise as the exhaust manifold has broken. We got stuck still several times but could free ourselves until we finally reached the campsite of Oppi Koppi late in the evening.

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The Okavango River is a vital watercourse located in southern Africa, coursing through a diverse range of landscapes and ecosystems. Its origin lies in the highlands of Angola, where rains fuel its inception. A meandering journey ensues as it navigates across the dry plains of Namibia and into Botswana, its final destination. The river’s trajectory defies conventional norms, for instead of finding its terminus in an ocean, it fans out into a vast inland delta known as the Okavango Delta.

This delta is an oasis of life amidst the arid landscapes of the Kalahari Desert. It breathes life into the region, sustaining an intricate web of flora and fauna. Reed beds and papyrus sway in the water, creating a labyrinth of channels and islands that teem with life. The delta’s heart pulses with seasonal floods, replenishing its depths and rejuvenating its surroundings.

The Okavango River supports an unparalleled wealth of biodiversity. Aquatic creatures ranging from the formidable Nile crocodile to playful otters call its waters home. Fish species, adapted to the delta’s ever-changing waters, thrive in abundance, feeding a cycle of life that extends to the numerous bird species that either call the delta home or visit during their migrations.

Terrestrial life thrives on the river’s banks and islands. Elephants, known for their bathing rituals, find solace in the river’s embrace. Buffalo and antelope gather to quench their thirst, always wary of lurking predators. The river is a lifeline for them, sustaining their existence in this harsh environment.

Human communities have flourished along the Okavango River for centuries. Indigenous people have formed intricate relationships with the river, relying on its waters for sustenance and transportation. Fishing, farming, and trade have been interwoven with the river’s flow, shaping cultures and traditions.

Modern challenges cast shadows upon the river’s vitality. Changes in land use, pollution, and climate fluctuations pose threats to its delicate balance. Conservation efforts have risen to the forefront, aiming to preserve this ecological marvel for future generations. National parks and wildlife reserves have been established to safeguard the river’s surroundings, providing sanctuaries for its inhabitants.

Tourism also plays a role in the Okavango’s story. Visitors flock to the delta to witness its splendor firsthand, embarking on safaris that offer glimpses of the incredible diversity that flourishes in this dynamic ecosystem. Guided by local experts, tourists gain insights into the delicate dance between life and water.

In conclusion, the Okavango River is a living testament to nature’s capacity for wonder and resilience. From its humble beginnings in Angola to its transformative journey through Namibia and Botswana, it nurtures life in the arid heart of southern Africa. Its waters sustain a delicate equilibrium of aquatic and terrestrial life, while also shaping human societies that have thrived along its banks. The challenges it faces today underscore the importance of responsible stewardship to ensure that its vibrant legacy endures for generations to come.

The Tsetse Fly: Unraveling the Enigma of Africa’s Silent Menace

In the sweltering embrace of Africa’s vast savannahs and dense woodlands, a tiny yet formidable creature commands attention: the tsetse fly. Measuring a mere few millimeters, this unassuming insect carries with it a legacy that intertwines with the very essence of the continent. Behind its delicate exterior lies a potent enigma – a vector of disease and an intricate player in the ecological web. With a quiet buzz, the tsetse fly weaves a narrative that traverses biology, history, and the intricate tapestry of human and animal life.

Found predominantly in sub-Saharan Africa, the tsetse fly belongs to the Glossinidae family. Its name, derived from the Tswana word “tsetse,” signifies the insect’s unsettling and persistent buzzing sound. While its appearance might deceive, its role in shaping ecosystems and human societies has been profound, albeit often unnoticed. What makes the tsetse fly a matter of both curiosity and concern is its association with a debilitating disease – human African trypanosomiasis, commonly known as sleeping sickness.

The tsetse fly’s role as a vector of sleeping sickness traces back to a microscopic foe – the protozoan parasites of the genus Trypanosoma. When an infected tsetse fly feeds on the blood of a mammal, including humans, these parasites enter the bloodstream, initiating a perilous journey within the host’s body. The disease’s early symptoms are often subtle, ranging from fever and headache to joint pain and itching. As the infection advances, however, it can penetrate the central nervous system, leading to severe neurological disorders, disruption of sleep patterns, and even death.

For centuries, the tsetse fly’s silent menace has shadowed the lives of those dwelling in its territories. Entire regions were rendered uninhabitable due to the fear of contracting sleeping sickness. Livestock, particularly cattle, suffered as well, falling victim to a similar disease called nagana, caused by a different species of the parasite. Nagana not only compromised animal health but also disrupted agricultural practices, with far-reaching implications for local economies.

The tsetse fly’s presence, paradoxically, is also a window into the ecosystems it inhabits. Its preference for densely vegetated areas, often near water sources, speaks to its reliance on specific habitats. As a result, the fly’s distribution has been a subtle indicator of the health of these ecosystems. Alterations to landscapes – whether through deforestation, habitat fragmentation, or climate change – have had profound implications for tsetse fly populations, triggering changes in disease transmission dynamics and affecting the delicate balance between vectors, hosts, and parasites.

Understanding and combating the tsetse fly’s impact have proven to be intricate challenges. Over the years, various approaches have been employed to control the fly’s populations and the diseases it spreads. Insecticide-treated traps, targets, and screens have been used to lure and eliminate tsetse flies, while livestock treatments and breeding programs aim to reduce the impact of nagana. Research into the fly’s biology, ecology, and the diseases it transmits continues to illuminate new avenues for control and prevention.

Efforts to eliminate the tsetse fly and its associated diseases have not been without controversy. Approaches such as large-scale insecticide spraying and habitat manipulation have raised concerns about unintended ecological consequences. Balancing the eradication of disease vectors with the preservation of delicate ecosystems requires a nuanced approach that considers the complex interactions within these environments.

The tsetse fly also serves as a symbol of Africa’s intricate connection with nature. Its presence underscores the coexistence of wildlife, livestock, and humans, shaping the ways these groups interact and influencing the development of cultures and economies. In some regions, the presence of tsetse fly-infested areas has led to unique adaptations, such as shifting cultivation practices or the development of specific cattle breeds that are more resilient to nagana.

As science and technology advance, new tools are emerging in the battle against the tsetse fly and the diseases it spreads. Genetic modification and sterile insect techniques show promise in reducing tsetse fly populations without the widespread use of pesticides. These innovative methods, however, come with their own set of challenges and ethical considerations, highlighting the complexity of managing disease vectors in a changing world.

The tsetse fly, with its unassuming demeanor, reveals a complex tapestry of interactions that transcend its tiny size. From the intricate biology of parasites to the delicate balance of ecosystems, its presence echoes through time and space, leaving an indelible mark on both human societies and the natural world. As we continue to unravel the mysteries of this silent menace, we uncover not only the threads of disease transmission but also the threads that connect us all in the intricate web of life.

The Zambezi River: A Ribbon of Life Weaving Through Africa’s Heart

The Zambezi River, a grand tapestry of nature’s design, flows with an indomitable spirit through the heart of Southern Africa, a life-giving artery coursing through six nations. It emerges as a true emblem of the continent’s vitality, nurturing both land and life along its 1,599-mile (2,574-kilometer) journey from the heart of Zambia to the Indian Ocean. From its humble beginnings as a small stream to its thunderous plunge over Victoria Falls, the Zambezi embodies the very essence of Africa’s wilderness, resilience, and the intricate interplay between nature and civilization.

Born from the rugged highlands of northwest Zambia, the Zambezi is a river of contrasts. It starts as a quiet trickle, a shy affirmation of existence, gathering strength as it collects tributaries and streams on its relentless journey. Like a storyteller unfurling a narrative, the river’s course weaves through diverse landscapes, dictating the rhythm of life within its embrace.

Victoria Falls, one of the most awe-inspiring natural wonders of the world, serves as both a testament to the Zambezi’s might and a reminder of its transformative power. As the river plummets with a roar of thunderous applause, it creates an ethereal veil of mist, casting rainbows across the sky. Known locally as “Mosi-oa-Tunya,” or “The Smoke That Thunders,” the falls epitomize the Zambezi’s dynamic character, as it transitions from a placid journey to a tumultuous descent.

Beyond the spectacle of Victoria Falls lies a vast mosaic of ecosystems that rely on the Zambezi’s generosity. The river’s flow carves through savannahs, wetlands, and woodlands, offering sustenance to a staggering array of wildlife. Elephants, the gentle giants of the land, gather along its banks, using its waters as a respite from the sun’s relentless heat. Crocodiles, masters of the water, lurk beneath its surface, embodying the river’s duality as a giver of life and a stage for the hunt.

The Zambezi’s fertile floodplains form a vital link in the intricate web of life, nurturing species and ecosystems in a delicate dance. These expansive wetlands, nurtured by the river’s seasonal surges, support a profusion of flora and fauna. From the delicate ballet of water lilies to the stealthy movements of predators, the Zambezi’s floodplains epitomize the fragile harmony of nature’s symphony.

As the river meanders through landscapes, it weaves stories of human existence. Local communities have relied on its bounty for generations, drawing sustenance from its waters and fertile soils. The Zambezi has provided not only sustenance but also a means of transportation and commerce. Fishing, a tradition that has endured over time, links generations and cultures, casting a net of tradition across the river’s surface.

Yet, like many rivers, the Zambezi is not untouched by the hand of humanity. The complexities of modern life – agriculture, industry, and urbanization – have left their imprint on its waters. Conservation efforts, driven by a shared understanding of the river’s importance, aim to balance development with the preservation of its delicate ecosystems. Organizations, governments, and communities are uniting to safeguard the Zambezi’s purity for generations to come.

Tourism has become a cornerstone of the Zambezi’s narrative. As the river winds through different countries, it offers a playground for those seeking adventure and communion with nature. Activities such as river safaris, canoeing, and fishing draw enthusiasts who are captivated by the promise of an unfiltered encounter with the wild. The Zambezi, a theatre of life’s drama, allows visitors to witness its creatures, landscapes, and the intricate stories that unfold within its banks.

The Zambezi River, with its origins shrouded in mystery and its course a mosaic of landscapes, embodies the pulse of Africa. It is not just a river; it is a lifeline, a teacher, and a guardian. It nurtures, challenges, and inspires those who live in its embrace. Its waters tell tales of birth, growth, and transformation, echoing the stories of nations and cultures that have flourished along its course. As it journeys through time and terrain, the Zambezi River stands as a symbol of the continent’s boundless spirit and the enduring dance of life it orchestrates.