Kairoun we are coming. Again and again we stop and appreciate the wonderful landscape. The inner city of Kairouan is very compact and not very large. You can reach all the tourist attractions by foot. Around the city runs a ring road. We park in front of the great mosque.

The impressive three-tiered minaret is the oldest in North Africa. The base is from the 8th century and was built of Roman stones. The ribbed dome with copper balls only came in the 13th century. We enter the mosque yard from the side entrance.

On the south side of the courtyard are 17 heavy cedar doors decorated with carvings leading to the huge prayer room. There is no access for non-Muslims. Here we await our guide. He tells about the mosque and Islamic daily routine, about prayers and when they are held.

In the mosque there are prayer rooms inside, a courtyard for washing and a tower for the muezzin to call. 128 steps, 33 metres high, and the muezzin had to climb up here five times a day in former times, because we have to pray five times a day. First time at half past six in the morning he calls – that depends on the sun and changes a little every day. In winter, at six or quarter past six, but in the summer, in July and August he called at half past four approximately, because the sun rises at five clock.

At the first muezzin you have an hour time to pray, when the sun rises, but in the morning, people sleep and might not listen to maybe the first call of the muezzin, then he calls an hour and a half later, and then each quarter of an hour. If you cannot hear it the first time, it will be the fourth or 6 time you will be woken up. The next time it calls 10 minutes after 12 o´ clock, the third time at three o´clock, the forth time when the sun goes down and the fifth time when it is dark already.

The size is impressive. The courtyard measures 135 by 80 meters. Young female Muslims gather in the courtyard. Women also have access to the Great Mosque. Their hours of prayer, however, are different to those of the men. We are impressed by the interior. As non-Muslims, we must not enter, but can see through the gate. A forest of columns of marble, granite and Porphyr with capitals of various origins – Roman – Byzantine – Arab – supports the ceiling. The furniture was brought in from Baghdad the 9th Century.

The sophisticated lighting is very dim. The courtyard is lined with marble, revolved by three sides of column supported arcades. The huge surface area of the courtyard was also utilized to collect rainwater, which was used for drinking and ablutions. The water flowed through a particle filter in the centre of the courtyard into cisterns beneath. Through several well openings, it was again raised.

We walk through the Medina of Kairouan. It is restored perfectly with 20 watch towers, and with several gates surrounded by a city wall that encircles the old city to 3.5 km in length. So walking through the streets we see further numerous mosques. We see the minaret of the “three doors Mosque” built in 1440. It is one of the oldest mosques in the city and was built by an Andalusian immigrant. Non-Muslims can only marvel at the three entrance doors and the huge, Moorish-style, held facade, carved Kufic fonts, arabesques and ornamental decorations.

We like the craft stores that are open to the road, where cloth is woven and wood is carved.

We are sorry for the poor camel in the well Barouta. Under the Dome at the first floor it drives the cogs of a large pumping station. The poor animal has to go blindfolded in a circle around the fountain. Pilgrims, but more tourists tend to buy here holy water from the legendary source that was emerging at the founding of Kairouan. Fairly concerned, we leave the unspeakable place. Such an attraction will not be supported by us.

We end the day in the courtyard of the hostel of Kairouan.

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Before going to Makthar, Tunisia, a cup of coffee in the adjacent cafe in Dougga. The further route is discussed. We drive a few miles to a hotel, there we will spend the night on the parking lot. Before dusk we reach the hotel. The car park is not situated idyllically which was not expected anyway, but we can use the showers, and get delicious dinner with good wine. Wine is also available in Muslim countries.

At early morning we start again. Tara does her morning walk, while Achim and Ingrid are still asleep in the truck. From our overnight stay in Kef we travel through vast plains and rolling hills in the direction of Makthar.

Again and again we stop to enjoy the magnificent view. The area is desert-like, a stone desert with only sparse vegetation. In the distance we see Hans and Ursl coming with their 4 wheel drive Mercedes Sprinter. And already Guido and Heidi are catching up. The last to arrive are always the tour guides Renate and Joachim, as they collect those who might have broken down on the road. They are the last to start the day’s route. Gathered at the roadside, we have fun and enjoy the beautiful landscape. But soon it goes on, because we must master our day’s route, otherwise we will be behind our daily schedule, because we want to be in Cape Town in 142 days on our overland travel.

We reach the ancient Makthar. The most important building is the Trajan’s arch, that borders the Forum in the south. It was built by the citizens in honour of their emperor. After the fall of Carthage and the flight of the Carthagians to Makthar their culture shaped the city and held its own against the later Roman influence.

Well preserved are the thermal baths of which columns, pools, mosaics and arches still bear witness to their former splendour. The cobbled streets are also well preserved, and the amphitheatre, with oval arena, surrounded by two circular walls, as well.

From Makthar Tunisia, we go on to the holy town of Kairouan on the same day.

From Tunis to Dougga, we leave in the early morning to go around 100 km east to the ruins. Gently the old Roman settlement hugs on the hill. Already from a distance you can see the pillars of the largest and best preserved Roman cities of Tunisia.

We’re the first ones at the excavation site and wait for the others. We enjoy the peace and tranquillity that is still present here in the hinterlands of Tunisia. Shepherds herd their cows and everything is so peaceful.

Dougga only in 1997 was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was founded as a settlement for veterans of the former soldiers of the Roman Empire.

Our guide is waiting in the ruins until we are complete. The weather is cool, it is already Decembre , during this time the weather in Tunisia is quite changeable.

Already Guido and Heidi are arriving with their VW Synchro, followed closely by Achim and Ingrid with their truck. The Mercedes is the most powerful of the vehicles and we are all sure that he will pull us out of the sand or mud if needed.

Our guided tour begins at the theatre, which seats about 3,500 spectators. 15 meters high are the seat rows. Our guide has a lot of knowledge, and tells about the city and the theatre. Hans listens patiently and interested, while Ursl is entirely dedicated to photography. We climb in the last row of seats and enjoy the wonderful view over the city. From the stage there still exists the porch with slender columns.

We are most impressed by the Capitol, one of the finest Roman monuments in Africa. The building was built as a temple for the gods Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. The pillars are outstanding with Corinthian capitals and gable relief with a golden eagle.

After the veteran settlement was firmly established old and new neighbourhoods grew together and a town centre was created with a forum and market. Wealthy citizens competed to beautify their city by generous foundations. Temples, theaters, triumphal arches and houses were added.

Also tanks and the Licinus thermal bath was built. The pools could be heated. The Baths are a maze of cold, luke and hot water baths, from lobbies, halls and adjoining rooms.

We are astonished about the toilets. The area is built in an oval shape, where every meter there is a hole, the people sat together sociable and made their big business. Unimaginable for today’s terms, yet exemplary for its time, with a trough and hand basin. Who knows what we will expect in this respect of our trip.

First of all, a cup of coffee in the adjacent cafe. The further route is discussed. We drive a few miles to a hotel, there we will spend the night on the parking lot.

For the next day we plan a visit to the souks of Tunis, Tunisia. The capital of Tunisia is located in the north of the country.

Tunis Population

It is inhabited by 900,000 people. Tunisia is a North African country with a diverse population that includes various ethnic groups. The majority of the population in Tunisia identifies as Arab-Berber, and this group makes up the largest ethnic composition in the country. The Arab-Berber identity represents a blending of Arab and Berber (indigenous North African) cultures and heritage.

Arab-Berber Tunisians are characterized by their Arabic language, Islamic religion (predominantly Sunni Islam), and a shared North African cultural identity that has evolved over centuries. This group includes individuals of both Arab and Berber descent, and they share common customs, traditions, and a sense of national identity.

It’s important to note that Tunisia, like many countries, has a degree of ethnic and cultural diversity within its population. There are also small communities of ethnic minorities, including Tunisian Jews and individuals of sub-Saharan African descent, who have contributed to the country’s cultural mosaic. However, the Arab-Berber identity is the dominant and most widely recognized ethnic group in Tunisia.

It’s worth emphasizing that the term “ethnicity” can be complex and multifaceted, and individuals within a country may identify with various aspects of their cultural, linguistic, and religious backgrounds. Tunisia’s cultural diversity is an integral part of its identity, and its people take pride in their rich heritage and history.

Tunis Centre

Tunis has two faces. The modern western style city with shopping malls, and the oriental, muslim city, with winding streets and the old souk. This is precisely the place we want to visit.

By commuter train we travel to the centre. The vehicles we leave at the campsite as there is no parking in the centre anyway. Even our dog Tara must stay behind.

Market Halls

Renate our guide shows us the market halls. We are amazed at the variety of goods – vegetables, fruit, but they also offer fish and meat here.

Medina

From the Market hall we walk through the narrow streets to the medina, the old town of Tunis. The Tunis Medina, also known as the Tunis Medina Quarter, is the historic and cultural heart of Tunis, the capital city of Tunisia. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture, narrow winding streets, and vibrant atmosphere.

The Tunis Medina has a long and rich history dating back to the founding of the city in the 9th century. It was originally established by the Aghlabid dynasty and later expanded and embellished by various rulers, including the Almohads and the Ottomans.

There is also the Tunis Souks, or bazaar. Again and again fruits are offered on the street. Especially of good taste are the prickly pears, unusual for our European taste.

City Gate

We are impressed by the last remaining city gate of the old town. The old town dates back to the 9th century and is a maze of streets with dwellings, shops and craftsmen shops. Today, the gate stands alone on the square to the entrance to the Medina. It seems to look almost like a triumphal arch.

Tunis History

By the time Tunisia was still French protectorate, the magnificent houses testify behind the gate. 1956 Tunisia became independent, and the French left the country. What they left behind was the Arabic and French language. We push through the narrow streets of the Old Town. Again and again we are struck by how different the wearing of the veil is handled. There are women without a headscarf, and there are women that cover just their hair with the cloth – the ghurka, the overall veil, we see very rarely.

Shisha

The smoke pipe, called shisha here, can not be missed in the daily lives of Tunisians. The selection is extensive, they are offered in all colours. The origin of the current form is in Egypt. Smoking together with others is seen today as a symbol of friendship. Shisha, also known as hookah, narghile, or water pipe, is a traditional smoking apparatus that is popular in various parts of the world, particularly in the Middle East, North Africa, and South Asia. It is often used for the consumption of flavored tobacco or herbal mixtures.

Souk

On entering the old town is the tourist part of the souk. Here all dispensable sorts of things are offered. We also find in this section lots of cafes, where the smoke pipe can be enjoyed, and snacks are available as well. We reluctantly leave and penetrate deeper into the more original parts. Food stalls offer a wide variety of pastries, where they are fried in hot fat and filled with egg, minced meat, herbs, tuna or seafood.

Of course there are a number of scams in the souk. The tricks are really good and skillful. They tell you they have connections in your home country and you’re caught in the trap. They offer you special carpets or special attractions. Of course, we fall into the trap. We console ourselves over the many Euros we ended up spending by the splendid view over the medina, the old town, this view we probably would not have found otherwise.

Medersa

We visit the Medersa Slimanya, which belongs to a complex of three Islamic schools. It was used to study the Koran and was lodging for the students who came from across the country and had their rooms here. The Slimanya was founded in 1756 by Ali Pasha, but does not serve as an Islamic school any more.

Next door we find another Islamic school. It now acts as a training centre for goldsmiths. A few steps further we visit the mausoleum Tourbet el Bey, clearly recognized by the dome. Ali Pasha the second built the mausoleum in the second half of the 18th century. Here the rulers, their families and high ministers are buried. The dozens of graves are decorated mainly in white marble, many with elaborate stone carvings, fonts, ornaments, some with coloured marble inlays. Women’s graves are bordered at both ends with marble slabs. From the patios you get to several columned domed rooms, where graves are also found.

The travel Tunisia has began. The ferry from Palermo to Tunis takes about nine hours. We have a lot of fun with the two couples from Germany. We talk about past travel adventures to pass the time.

The ferry

The ferry route between Palermo, Italy, and Tunis, Tunisia, is a popular and convenient way to travel between these two Mediterranean destinations.

The journey typically begins at the port of Palermo, the capital city of Sicily. The port is easily accessible by road and public transportation. Travelers should arrive at the port well in advance of the departure time. To complete ticketing and boarding procedures takes time.

The ferry ride from Palermo to Tunis crosses the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. Travelers can enjoy breathtaking views of the open waters during the journey.

The ferry docks at the port of Tunis, the capital and largest city of Tunisia. Upon arrival, travelers have easy access to transportation options, including taxis and buses. From here you can explore Tunis and other parts of Tunisia.

The duration of the ferry journey between Palermo and Tunis can vary. Depending on the specific ferry service chosen, it typically takes several hours. Ferries operating on this route are equipped with various facilities, including restaurants, lounges, and sometimes even entertainment options, ensuring a comfortable and enjoyable journey.

Traveling by ferry between Palermo and Tunis allows passengers to experience the rich cultural diversity of both Italy and Tunisia. From the Italian cuisine and architecture in Palermo to the vibrant markets and historical sites in Tunis, there’s much to explore. It’s advisable to book ferry tickets in advance, especially during peak travel seasons, to secure your preferred departure time.

Ferry schedules may vary throughout the year. It’s essential to check with the ferry operators for the most up-to-date information. Overall, the Palermo to Tunis ferry route provides a convenient and enjoyable way to connect Southern Italy with Northern Africa. It’s a gateway to experiencing the unique charm and heritage of both regions while enjoying the scenic beauty of the Mediterranean Sea.

Campsite near Tunis

We are travelling with Seabridge, a German tour operator, which has specialized in tours of this kind. At the campsite, near Tunis, we make ourselves comfortable. We wait for the tour leaders and the fourth vehicle, a Mercedes truck carrying Achim and Ingrid. They will arrive during the next few days.

Daily Life

One of our most important pieces of equipment is the Coleman two flame fuel stove. Patrol, because the fuel is available everywhere.

Guido and Heidi travel Tunisia with a VW Synchro, which is very comfortable and self-contained. It is a four-wheel vehicle with modified suspension and large 16 inch wheels.

Although we will be travelling as a group, everyone is going for themselves. In the evening there is a route meeting, where the next part of the route is discussed. In the morning everybody leaves in their own time. During the early evening we meet at an agreed place for the night or wait together at sights.

Our dog is used to travel and enjoys being on the road. Suspiciously, she watches the dog from the campsite who keeps lazy in the shade to hold his morning nap.

Our vehicle

At the back door of our Citroen we fixed a jerry can. Further ones we stored inside to have a range of approximately 1000 kilometres, this will be the longest stretch without a gas station.

The laundry must be washed by hand, mostly because washing machines are rare, and if they are existing, usually only with cold water.

Our guides

Our guides Joachim and Renate have arrived with their Toyota. The Mercedes truck with Ingrid and Achim has arrived as well. Now we are complete. We did not know at this time that we soon would not see the group any more.