Dongola – Along the Nile in Sudan 039

In the early hours of the morning we set off towards Dongola. We again take the gravel road that runs along the Nile to see the pretty villages.

The track is pretty good, quite soft, because the ground is sandy. In addition, the route was held recently repaired. Dirt roads quite often need repairs, for the weather, like wind or rain in the South, which damages the roads often heavily. If a vehicle is stuck, it leaves a hole, in which other cars stuck again. Thus, a dirt road after a short time gets into a rollercoaster road that must be repaired from time to time with heavy machinery.

Sign posts are missing and it is often difficult to find your way. As long as we drive through towns, it is relatively easy, outside villages branch different tracks and we are often unsure which one to take. The navigation system helps, it shows the direction. Since the traffic volume is low and mainly consists of local traffic, signs are not necessary, anyway, the locals know the way and foreigners come here rarely.

After some time we are back on tarmac, we need to cross a bridge to the other bank of the Nile to reach Dongola. The bridge is only a few years old, earlier here was a ferry across the Nile.

Dongola Sudan

Travelers tell us that in 2005 all the way from Wadi Halfa to Dongola was difficult dirt road, and the that the tarmac is only a few years old, and the bridge as well.

After days of driving on gravel we are happy again to be on tarmac, although the dirt road leads through the villages and you can see just interesting things, for those who are in a hurry, the tarmac route is the faster alternative, that leads through the desert through uninhabited area.

Shortly after the bridge, we reach the entrance road to Dongola. Urban public transport is done by so called Tuk Tuk, which are three-wheeled bubble cars to the sides open, with two-stroke engine. An airy kind of taxi and quite pleasant in the desert heat. The ride must be negotiated in advance, but the prices are very reasonable.

We park our vehicles on the roadside and make our way to shop.

Dongola is the capital of the Province of North Sudan, an area that measures 600 by 600 kilometers. It is also the capital of the Nubians. The city lives on agriculture. Well irrigated fields along the Nile bring crops, fruits and vegetables on the market of the city. Dates also play a big role, they are harvested during September and October.

Before shopping we need to strengthen ourselves and find a roadside restaurant on the main road.


The food is delicious. There is falafel, pita bread and fried fish, probably from the Nile, I do not even want to know it as precisely, as it should be Bilharzia water, good appetite, anyway we enjoy our meal.

For drinking a metal container with water is put on the table, as usual, perhaps Nile water as well, but now it does not matter, we have already eaten the fish.

The following shopping trip becomes quite funny, we have fun with the traders, of course we take pictures, and the dealers themselves pull out a camera and take pictures of us.

Shopping in Dongola

We leave Dongola south and find an idyllic place at the Nile for the following night.

Camp at the Nile