On our travel to Mozambique we were crossing the border easily and we travelled through a National Park more or less straight to the coast. It was already a bit late when we checked in to Hotel Milpark in Chimbio. We got a key for a room for shower and we were happy.
In the morning we continued direction Beira, along the road street sellers with different fruits like pineapple, pawpaw, delicious.
First we did not find the campsite Piques but finally we managed to check in and it was directly at the beach. Tara was happy as she likes the sea to have a swim or just looking out at the water.
We pitched up our big tent in the sand and needed to go to Beira to get a internet dongle and SIM for Mozambique.
When we wanted to cook our gas was empty and so we did our cooking with charcoal.
02.06.2012 – 06.06.2012
It is very windy at the coast and we have to put in our pegs again and again. We spent the days with working and enjoying the sea and the beach. Every day we walked to a close by local market to get the things we daily needed and I tested my Portugese which seemed not so bad because the people understood what I wanted to buy. We liked one of the market women where we started to buy regularly and also tasted her yeast baked dumplings which were delicious.
The night was quiet and the wind did not blow, so we slept quite well. But the morning was not so nice as the dog hunters came with their truck to kill the stray dogs. Their method is rather sad, the dart the dogs with some substance, so that they get slow and with nets they catch them and throw them live onto the truck. Tara has observed all of this and got scared as she knew that the dogs were hurt. She just stayed close to us and a worker from the campsite came to tell us we should take care that she does not leave the camp and might get caught as well.
The days passed by with working and organising things.
We got our Visas extenden for another month, in total we can stay for 3 month in Mozambique. Friday is always dico night and the music plays until morning. We again could not sleep as it was so loud that you could really feel the vibrations.
The carburetor problem was still not solved or maybe it came again, anyway. So we got help from Martin a guy that originally originated from Germany and with him we tried to fix the carburetor issue. Whenever we tried to drive, in the beginning it worked very well but after a few kms the problem came again, only little power. So we took out the carburetor and fitted a seal in between hoping it changed something.
We met a guy, a hunter who brought clients to shooting elephants, promised to help us with TIP but he disappeared, also such guys you meet when traveling.
Again in the garage. Floater of the carburetor was adjusted and again fitted into the vehicle for – I do not know – 100 times already.
Tara had bitten a little dog which was annoying to her. His mouth was swollen but the owner just said he must learn not to nerv other dogs.
In the afternoon we found a place were they refilled cooking gas and they even had one to sell, only a small 2.7 liter one but anyway we had not too much space so we bought it as a second one.
We are still in contact with Christin and Martin who we met in Kubu Island, because they were back in South Africa because they still had things to prepare before they could start their trip through Africa. They will follow us and we wanted to meet somewhere to continue together.
We said good bye to the lady from the market stall as we wanted to leave continue to the North. In the evening we sat together and drank beer and enjoyed the atmosphere in the bar.
In the morning we drove to Martin the mechanic so adjust the floater again and adjust the cold start, the we made a test ride to shoprite a huge supermarket to do some shopping. We picked up a gas bottle again, had to wait until they finished their lunch break and drove back to Martin to pay our bill but he did not take money as he said that most of the things I did myself anyway.
In the evening we went to the restaurant to pay our bill, but the boss said we should pay when we would come again in the future, knowing that we would leave for Tanzania. Great people here! We slept well but discovered that the storm had damaged our tent a little bit.
We left Beira and headed to Caia in the hinterland. The road changed from good to bad and good again. 26 km after Inhaminga a tar road started which was much better to drive. After we pad passed Caia there was a huge bridge across the Zambesi River. After the bridge we checked in at a campsite called Cuacua Lodge a well maintaned site with shower and soap. We just had dinner and went to “bed”.
Our days plan was Caia – Mocuba – Nampula about 770 kilometres. We managed to get as far as Mocuba 366 km and checked in at a campsite. The sites dog was a female and had puppies, so it decided to immediately attack our dog. I got him at his neck and Alexandra could put Tara back in the Land Rover, So no camping at the moment, another 404 km to drive until Nampula.
These are the situations I hate, as you need to plan ahead in Africa, as you never know what could all happen. So when we came near to Nampula is got already dark – an absolutely no go to drive when dark in Africa – and above all the tar road turned into a gravel road. When driving hours for hours you start acting like a robot and you just go on. As we experienced Alexandra could not drive the car as she had not the necessary power in her arms to steer without power steering on gravel roads or in sandy or muddy conditions.
Rather late we arrived in Nampula at the campsite Complexo Montes Nunc. Completely exhausted Taraand I fell asleep whileAlexandra put up the tent.
In the morning we had a chat with an Norwegian couple also on overland Africa trip. The campsite was beautifully situated, really scenic.
We went to town, got petrol and headed to the Ilha de Moçambique. The weather was really bad and cloudy so we could not take any photos or do any filming. So before the bridge there was a campsite, we wanted to check in to wait for better weather, maybe tomorrow. But the owner did not bargain for the price. It was really too much money and above all three dogs dominated the place so we decided to go on.
So we drove on to Nacale to find a campsite at Beach Diving Center. It was a 4×4 track to get there but was a nice place, run by British Folks. There were 3 dogs as well, so we agreed to let our dog go for a walk away from the campsite. Later we would return later and keep her in the Land Rover. We spent a peaceful night there although it was raining during the night.
23.07.2012 Nacale nach Pemba
On the roadside stalls with fruits , nuts and much more, a dense vegetation wonderful to watch. In Pemba we went to Bush Camp but again they had 5 fierce dogs. So they did not take us in but recommended another campsite and explained us the way there. So we did not find it, used a lot of petrol, so again filling up from the jerry can. The drawing of the lady was not correct. But finally got there and learned that the campsite was still under construction.
Our last option was Russels Place, again for the forth time we passed police control, this time they stopped us. Alexandra was leaning at the side with her head supported by a jacket and was sleeping. So the police got suspicious and after checking her and not waking her up he waved me through, nice guy.
At Russels Place they were very friendly but had lots of dogs as well. As Tara had already her evening walk in the wild, we stayed at this campsite. We fed her, I kept the other dogs away and quickly put her back in the Land Rover.
We put up our tent, Alex cooked some Dinner and we had some beer. Soon we felt asleep. During the night I woke up and realized it was quite hot. So I got up and opened the windows of the Land Rover even more for Tara. So I got the chance to smoke a cigarette und surveillance of the pack of dogs.
After an extensive walk with Tara we went to immigration to extend our Visa. But they did not do so, which I already had feared in Beira. I was not sure if the information might be wrong. So now we were glad that we had made many kms the last days. It was not so far anymore to the Tanzanian Border.
Next we went to the recommended garage to get our exhaust manifold welded again. I wonder how often it still can be done before it is finished. But it was without success so after a walk with Tara, we returned to the campsite. We had a chat with our neighbours, Germans that had lived in Kenya and invited us for Gin-Tonic. As a sleeping pill – 2 cold beers.
In the morning back to the garage because on that bad roads we had 2 layers broken of our rear left spring. They took it out, welded them and fitted it back into the Land Rover. Looked good a nice farewell chat with the 80 years old owner and we went back to the campsite. I still tried to tighten the bolts from the exhaust manifold. As it was dirty there so I supposed air gets out there and indeed by tightening the noise got less.
26.07.2012 Pemba -Mocimboa de Praia
Early in the morning we left. The tar road was good, so we proceeded quite fast. Stop Over at a nice campsite next to the road.
As the campsite had 7 dogs in Mocimboa we went out again to walk Tara. And anyway we needed some money from the ATM. I queued up as many people wanted to withdraw. After a long time it was my turn and I put in everything I needed. But there did not come any money at the ATM, but all others before me got their money. So I tried again and again and nothing. Impossible as there is money on the account. I got nervous and so the people waiting behind me. Then I had an idea and changed the language from English to Portugese and now the ATM gave me money. So bviously it only worked in Portugese language.
Back at the campsite we had a shower with view to the stars, same the toilet and had some dinner under the sky.
We leave Mocimboa and get until Mueda, not really far but at least a lodge on our way. Checked in at Takatuka and camped in the yard of the Lodge. We had bucket shower, there was no running water.
In the morning in Mueda we quickly did some shopping and we headed to the border. The road was average gravel road. About 100 km before the real border the officer from Mocambique customs checked our TIP. He realized that the officer when entering the country had missed one figure in our car registration. So the TIP was not correct but he made no fuss and let us pass. Now we were heading to the bridge that connects Mozambique with Tanzania. Across the Bridge there id Tanzanian customs.