Gedaref is the last town before the border. From Khartoum we head towards Ethiopia. Soon after Khartoum Africa is changing and there appear the first round thatched huts as they are so typical for black Africa.

Since there are no campsites and we do not make it up before dark to the border, we are looking for a place away from the road in the bush. Bush camping is no problem in Sudan, the people are very friendly and you can sleep undisturbed.

Early in the morning we go on, if all goes well and the roads are good, we are crossing the border into Ethiopia today.

Bine reports on the radio that their last Sudanese pounds have to be exchanged. Gedaref is the last major town before the Ethiopian border, there is also a bank. We have to look for it.

We stop in a side street and wait for Bine. Gedaref is for Sudanese conditions, a larger city. It is the center for the agricultural hinterland, Sorghum and sesame is cultivated here. Even cattle breeding is done in the region, especially by nomadic Arabs.

With the donkey cart, the grain is brought into the city to the many mills that contribute as a small craft on the urban economy.

Soon all shopping is done and we move on. A strange-looking landscape accompanied us. There is little traffic, people and domestic animals are the most common road users in this part of Sudan.

Although peace reigns at the moment, it there has been disturbances again and again. Reasons are lack of political representation of communities in the national government and a low investment in the development of Eastern Sudan.

Animals have right of way, as everywhere in Africa, they are after all, the livelihood of the people here, an animal run over is a worse offense than to hurt or to kill a man – common in all of Africa.

Patiently we wait until the herd is crossing the road. From a caretaker is no trace.

Suddenly we discover the boy, who should take care of the camel herd. He must have forgotten that his animals are crossing the streets. The boy is maybe 8 to 10 years and has a responsible job. Spontaneously, the term child labor comes into our mind. But this concept is one of the western world. Child labor is not a concept for the Sudanese. They have a different view of the world, other necessities, children simply grow up in the family. Slowly they are growing up with the tasks and I get the impression that they are not so unhappy. Reading and writing most of them learn in the Islamic school.

In brisk drive we approach the border. Already early in the afternoon we crossed the border and found a place to sleep on the Ethiopian side of the border.

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We plan to see the whirling dervish. But before I once again want to know it and decide to have my hair cut.

Hassan brings us to the hairdresser. A few minutes later, I regret my decision, but now there is no escape. And the barber already comes to the point. I wanted as usual hair washing and cutting, but seemingly washing is not done here. Hassan and Bine are amused and curiously observe what is happening here with me. So far everything still seems to happen normally. With an electric shaver, the hair is cut, not measured but by feeling. I discover another customer. I really do not want to look like him, but about the style of the hair we have not previously spoken. I sincerely hope the barber had ever foreign customers. Although unlikely, because the store is outside the city center. The thing takes shape, seems to be not so bad. Then it gets really bad. With a shiny razor blade the edges of the hair are trimmed. I’m afraid. Can he handle the blade,will he cut inside me, how many times he has already used this blade, there are many diseases in Africa. I try to keep still and not flinch. Through the mirror I see a different client. He receives the default hairstyle, all hair cut to baldness. With this style they have experience, but with my hair?

Suddenly I get some substance smeared into my face. What is this! A face peeling. I did not order, could be expensive. I count our cash holdings in the head.

Now it must rest for a while, then the procedures is repeated. I sit helplessly in the chair and have to wait. Then all that stuff is rubbed off my face like a scratch card. Does not feel so bad. I am envied by Bine and Alexandra, Hassan remains skeptical. Now I get another substance into my face. The hairdresser massages and rubs pretty wild. Where I’m gone? Only now is the turn of hair washing and the substance is washed from my face, a strange approach.

Still rubbed dry and finished is the whole bag of tricks. I’m not sure if I should laugh or cry, all the others laugh, so I do the same, and take the result on the bright side, pay about 5 € and it is good. Freshly styled, we go to the dance of the whirling dervish.

The ceremony has already begun, a preacher speaks to people and is waiting for the approval of the crowd.

The whole takes place in Omdurman at the Tomb of Sheikh Hamed al Nil, a Sufi leader of the 19th century. Every Friday afternoon, members of the Sufis meet, to hold the religious ceremony. Around the Preacher already some men start to prepare for the ritual. They sing and beat the drum. Outside the grave a great square was created for the dancers. The songs start slowly and increase gradually. The purpose of the ritual is to recite the name of God and with his assistance to fall to an ecstatic state in which the heart can communicate directly with God. Then there is a short pause and the Sufi form up to march to the grave.

Once the green flag is raised, the actual ritual starts. While they march, they sing continually La illallah illallah “which translated means “there is no God but Allah”. It is the first line of the Muslim faith book. Other believers who first waited on the edge, join. The Sufis are often described as dancing dervishes, which is actually a misnomer. For the ritual consists mainly of marching in a circle, sing and clap their hands. Only occasionally individual Sufis break out, turn around their own axis in a trance, to find a personal path to God.

The central idea of Sufism is to find a personal path to God, which differs fundamentally from the orthodox Muslim prayer ritual. The Sufis organize themselves in order or brotherhoods, headed by a charismatic leader or sheikh.

The most common Brotherhood in Sudan is one, which was founded in the 12th century in Baghdad and taken from there to the Sudan.

The ritual reaches its peak, to be recognized, for the increasingly loud chants and movements become faster and faster.

Even a while we watch the Sufis in their religious ceremony. Tomorrow we will leave Khartoum and head towards the Ethiopian border.

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With Hassan, we visit Khartoum sights and first drive to Omdurman to the Tomb of the Mahdi.

Just five months after his victory over Khartoum, the Mahdi died after a brief illness in 1885. The tomb with a silver dome was built to honor him. It became a real pilgrimage for all Sudanese, which replaces the pilgrimage to Mecca. After the British had recaptured Khartoum, they blew up the monument in the air to destroy the pilgrimage. The nephew of General Gordon did the job, and scattered the ashes of the Mahdi in the Nile. Lord Kitchener wanted the head of the Mahdi as a pencil stand, however, took distance from this, now the head is buried in Wadi Halfa. An exact replica of the tomb was built in 1947 again.

The tomb can be entered by non-Muslims, but women must cover their hair.

Hassan drives us to the souk of Omdurman. He is waiting in the taxi. The souk is the largest in the Sudan. The main section consists of many narrow streets with shops and stalls. The buildings are very old, but the sounds, the smell and the different dialects make up the charm of the souks.

We stroll relaxed through the streets, as Khartoum is regarded as the safest capital in Africa. The people are very friendly here, they of course want to sell something.

On a corner shoes are offered ,at a different corner spices. All this is available in the souk. There are not only crowds of people in the bazaar, but also traffic jam. Motor rickshaws fight with cars to the right of way. A really lively mess.

With Hassan’s taxi we torture ourselves out through heavy traffic to the periphery, where there should be a camel market.

The traffic is unusual by Western standards and we are glad that we have left our car in the Blue Nile Sailing Club, our camping site.

The camel market does not meet our expectations. It is said to be the largest in Sudan, but we see only a handful of animals. The province of Darfur is the center of camel breeding in the Sudan and most of the animals that are offered for sale, comes from this region. Most camels are destined for the Egyptian market as meat suppliers, a small portion is delivered to the Gulf states as racing camels.

We talk to a group of traders. Hassan translates. Of course, we are an attraction here when do Europeans come to the camel market. Our women are naturally admired. Timid, cautious approach to a foreign culture. Proudly they show us the animals. Normally you have to pay the bride price for marriage in camels. But we do not get an offer. We do not know whether these animals have already been sold, or whether a buyer is sought.

The camels like the fresh green grass. We take photos and they want money, for food of course. We make a donation and leave.

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In the afternoon the next day we are already in Khartoum, the capital of Sudan. There are quite a lot of interesting sights in the City. Khartoum was founded on the confluence of the White and Blue Nile, and actually consists of three parts. The historic center, Omdurman, the old capital of Mahdi and the modern Khartoum North.

The strategic importance of the confluence of the Blue and White Nile for the first time recognized Muhammad Ali in his expedition to the Sudan1820. The original main market in the region was then transferred from Shendi to Khartoum and a garrison was established here, which eventually became a permanent settlement. Prior to that time it was not more than a fishing village. Only 10 years after the expedition Khartoum grew enormously. The city experienced a boom from 1850 as the Nile was released for the ships into the South, and the city became the main transit point for ivory and slaves.

The pressure of the Europeans in Khartoum led to the closure of the slave market 1854. Thus the Nile became less important for Khartoum.

A good view of the confluence of the Nile is from the Mogran Family Park

Good to see also the unusual hotel Burj Al Fateh Hotel is, built in the form of a sail. We hear it should belong to the Libyan leader Gaddafi, or he should at least be involved by funding.

At the campsite we meet the taxi driver Hassan, he will show us Khartoum the next day. Hassan is fluent in German, he tells us that he had worked for years in Germany as a truck driver, but the homesickness drew him back to Sudan. From the savings he bought a car that is by now 25 years old with which he earns a living as a taxi driver.

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The Merowe Pyramids are on the agenda. From Karima we head towards Atbara. We need to cross Bayuda desert. This is not a big challenge, because it is tarmac up to Atbara. However, it is very hot, even the wind does not cool.

The Bayuda desert is a part of the Nubian desert and lies in a bow formed by the Nile. In the South it gradually goes over into a sparsely vegetated landscape, which extends to Khartoum. It consists predominantly of a mixture of sand and stones, and is interrupted by occasional long covered ridge. In the wadis grow woody shrubs, low trees and a bushy acacia.

We have a break, because the heat is tremendous. Imposing are the ridges that extend through the endless desert. Occasionally bushy acacia come out from the sand, one wonders where this bush gets the water from. The settlement is very sparse, mostly nomads with their camels live here.

At our resting place a nomad passes with his animals in the distance. We wave, the greeting is answered, then he moves on, probably to Atbara on the market, perhaps he wishes to sell camels.

Because of the great heat, we decide to finish early today and find a good place for the night. We use the afternoon to relax and hide in the shadows of our vehicles.

On a new bridge we cross the Nile direction Atbara. The road is good and we are making rapid progress. We look out for a coffee woman, we want some breakfast.

In Atbara, there is nothing to see, it is a transportation knot for the rail, a typical city with low houses and bustling activity. We do without a visit and stay at the roadside stand at a coffee woman.

We learn that the lady is not Sudanese, but an Ethiopian, probably a Somali.

Since the war, many Somalis are living in Sudan, especially in the capital Khartoum. The coffee preparation is interesting. Not only coffee but also spices are mixed into the coffee. Each woman has her own coffee recipe and the drink tastes delicious.

After this break we go to the Merowe pyramids. Good asphalt road and we make it to the late afternoon to the pyramids. We turn from asphalt towards the campsite and again we are stuck in the sand. Now, air must be released to about 1.5 bar to move forward again, sand ladders, we will not need.

Tara feels hot, she’s bored and doubts in my car driving skills. It does not help, now we are waiting in the sweltering heat until all the tires are ready. The scenery all around us is spectacular, like a picture book, lonely and abandoned. Not quite as lonely, camel riders are approaching from the distance. Tara can not stand this and barks at the strangers. Her job is to guard the car after all. We do not know what the riders want from us. Language barriers. But it quickly becomes clear. They want to take Alexandra for a ride in the desert. The camel protests, it would rather lie in the shade, but it does no good, on its feet and off they go.

And before I realized what happened, my wife has gone already. I can not worry about that now, I must release air from the tires to get the car go again. After a while Alexandra is brought back, she liked it well, no one asked me.

Now we can start again. The Pyramids of Merowe are located in a beautiful landscape. They are the main attraction in the Sudan in cultural terms, even though you feel nothing of tourism here, for it is still in its infancy.

The pyramids stand alone on a hill like a row of broken teeth. An interesting sight.

Though the pyramids were clearly influenced by the Egyptian counterparts, they are however very different in shape and size to those at Giza. The largest of the pyramids of Meroe or Merowe as it is written, is under 30 meters with an angle of 70 degrees. The smaller size allows for quicker construction time and fewer workers, including the technical costs were less. The grave chambers were directly cut into the rock and the pyramids just built on top of it, a substantial difference to those in Egypt.

The pyramids were covered with a clay plaster, giving them a smooth, shiny surface. The base was simply painted in red, yellow and blue stars.

Unfortunately, all were beheaded, which is due to the work of an Italian treasure hunter.

We cast a last glance at the magnificent scenery before we torture our vehicle through deep sand to the campsite. The difficulty is to find the right track. We can see the campsite in the distance and head towards it. Sections with firmer sand alternate with soft sand. One must realize in time when it is soft, so you have enough momentum on the one hand, on the other hand, enough torque in reserve. Despite the 125 horsepower, the engine works heavily. However, we are also quite loaded with diesel and water reserve, an additional weight of 150 kilograms.

We did it without getting stuck. Now we are at the campsite and have a fantastic view of the desert.

In the distance, one can again see the Merowe pyramids. No wonder why the rulers have chosen this place as the final resting place.

We were lucky again and found a great place to stay overlooking the Pyramids. We enjoy the rest of the afternoon with a bottle of cold beer. Tara is also satisfied , she can easily explore the area and enjoy her evening walk.

In the afternoon the next day we are already in Khartoum, the capital of Sudan.

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Camel herds are a daily appearance in the Sudan. A herd crosses road, we must wait. Camels have right of way. One is well advised to let pass animals, no matter which, because they are not used to traffic and can not assess the risk of a vehicle.

The gravel ends here and we have to continue on tarmac, because we want to get to Karima before sunset. On the tarmac, we are progressing quickly, there are 120 kilometres to the pyramids of Karima.

Along the way again and again slender minarets rise from the plain. This is unusual and fascinates us, not only the form and method of construction is unusual, but also the paint.

Shortly before Karima we turn off the main road and then along the Nile in search of an overnight stay. This time, it is difficult, because this bank is very densely populated.

We must still do shopping,in the village shop Alexandra and Bine have not got everything. A quick stop and wait, the ladies go shopping. During the waiting time I observe the village life.

We wander around a bit and can not find a suitable campsite for the night and it’s getting late. There are days while travelling when nothing works out right, and usually something happens. Today is one of those days.

We must continue to Karima, in the evening light we pass Jebel Barkal, the sacred mountain and can also take a look at the pyramids, we want to visit tomorrow, but now we turnoff in half-dark into the desert. I follow Bodo’s truck and the inevitable happens, we get stuck in the sand and have to liberate us in the dark yet.

Only next morning, we can see how badly we were stuck.

In the pitch dark, we had to shovel both cars free and release air, at least to get on solid ground. Now we are left with half-filled tires, it doesn’t matter to Tara, she seeks shade because it is pretty hot early in the morning. Now it’s time to fill air in the tires, because we will drive on tarmac.

Our mini compressor is existing, thanks to the care of my wife. Originally we did not want to buy any because we were traveling in a group where there were large powerful compressors. But my wife saw this little thing and insisted on buying it. I was skeptical, but now we are glad we have it, for it is often being used, and makes us well, even in the depths of Africa, we will need it often, not only in the desert.

And surprisingly, it works quite well too. For 30 € a bargain. Bodo is also filling hir tires. The truck has air brakes and it automatically has a compressor on board. After the tires are warmed up, I check again and correct the pressure bar to the required 4.5.

In a short time we are at the Pyramids of Karima. It is a site of about 20 pyramids on the west side of the Jebel Barkal, the holy mountain. They are built differently than the pyramids in Egypt, they are built much smaller and steeper. They are clad with sandstone.

It is a large site, which consisted of the pyramids and some temples, but from the temples hardly anything is left.

Nevertheless, the whole area is shrouded in a mystic atmosphere.

A few kilometers further we visit the royal cemetery at El Kurru, a World Heritage Site. We must find the supervisor that unlocks the graves.

The graves have no light, so we help ourselves with our torch. Great wall paintings come to light, we are impressed by the good state of preservation and the mystical mood of these graves.

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In the early hours of the morning we set off towards Dongola. We again take the gravel road that runs along the Nile to see the pretty villages.

The track is pretty good, quite soft, because the ground is sandy. In addition, the route was held recently repaired. Dirt roads quite often need repairs, for the weather, like wind or rain in the South, which damages the roads often heavily. If a vehicle is stuck, it leaves a hole, in which other cars stuck again. Thus, a dirt road after a short time gets into a rollercoaster road that must be repaired from time to time with heavy machinery.

Sign posts are missing and it is often difficult to find your way. As long as we drive through towns, it is relatively easy, outside villages branch different tracks and we are often unsure which one to take. The navigation system helps, it shows the direction. Since the traffic volume is low and mainly consists of local traffic, signs are not necessary, anyway, the locals know the way and foreigners come here rarely.

After some time we are back on tarmac, we need to cross a bridge to the other bank of the Nile to reach Dongola. The bridge is only a few years old, earlier here was a ferry across the Nile.

Travelers tell us that in 2005 all the way from Wadi Halfa to Dongola was difficult dirt road, and the that the tarmac is only a few years old, and the bridge as well.

After days of driving on gravel we are happy again to be on tarmac, although the dirt road leads through the villages and you can see just interesting things, for those who are in a hurry, the tarmac route is the faster alternative, that leads through the desert through uninhabited area.

Shortly after the bridge, we reach the entrance road to Dongola. Urban public transport is done by so called Tuk Tuk, which are three-wheeled bubble cars to the sides open, with two-stroke engine. An airy kind of taxi and quite pleasant in the desert heat. The ride must be negotiated in advance, but the prices are very reasonable.

We park our vehicles on the roadside and make our way to shop.

Dongola is the capital of the Province of North Sudan, an area that measures 600 by 600 kilometers. It is also the capital of the Nubians. The city lives on agriculture. Well irrigated fields along the Nile bring crops, fruits and vegetables on the market of the city. Dates also play a big role, they are harvested during September and October.

Before shopping we need to strengthen ourselves and find a roadside restaurant on the main road.

The food is delicious. There is falafel, pita bread and fried fish, probably from the Nile, I do not even want to know it as precisely, as it should be Bilharzia water, good appetite, anyway we enjoy our meal.

For drinking a metal container with water is put on the table, as usual, perhaps Nile water as well, but now it does not matter, we have already eaten the fish.

The following shopping trip becomes quite funny, we have fun with the traders, of course we take pictures, and the dealers themselves pull out a camera and take pictures of us.

We leave Dongola south and find an idyllic place at the Nile for the following night.

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The port of Wadi Halfa, we have imagined really differently. It is only a strip of sand, in front an old body of a vessel is anchored there, our passenger ferry is fixed to it. Welcome to the Sudan.

The mooring is trouble free, not at least because we had a fixer again, a nice guy, we can recommend, called Mazar Mahir. We get our passports back and after about an hour, we have Sudanese ground under the feet.

To our delight, our dog has survived in quite good condition we swear to Allah we will never do that again, the captain has fed her plenty, a month’s portion and watered her properly, and she makes no impression of being stressed. The vet first wanted to examine our dog first, but when he saw her, he was thinking she is dangerous, so he just prepared the papers for her.

Since it is late, we are looking for a bush camp in the desert, Bruce and Petra join us.

They live in England, but are from Africa. Bruce from South Africa, Petra is from a German family in Namibia. They use their trip for a visit to relatives. They spend their nights in their roof tent.

Tara enjoys being back with us after this adventurous voyage.

We still sit comfortably together and discuss our experiences on board the ferry. We still must go to Wadi Halfa for some paper work.

Next morning we are on the road again. From Wadi Halfa we drive on good tarmac in direction to Dongola. The landscape is fascinating and we are glad to be back on solid ground.

We knew very little about Sudan, so we are always amazed about the mud architecture and how buildings are built from this material.

We want to penetrate deeper into the mysteries of this country and turn off the asphalt road to drive closer at the Nile River.

The dirt road is good, solid ground, barely sandy passages and so we are making good progress. We already hold out for an overnight stay.

We want to find a place on the bank of the Nile River, which is not be visible from the road so we can spend a quiet night.

We find the seemingly perfect spot, overlooking the river, beautifully lonely. We get out to take pictures and prepare for a quiet night.

But it takes less than five minutes and we are attacked by insect swarms. They do not sting, but are annoying and we flee quickly in our vehicles. Later we will learn that here at the moment there is a fly infestation and the locals need to protect their faces with nets, that not thousands of flies get into all body openings.

It is a pity as it would have been a perfect setting for an overnight bush camp.

Wonderfully painted houses line the old main street. Before tarmac was attached this was the main route to the Sudan, the gravel road leads straight through the villages. Since the tar road villages are likely to suffer a little, as the business passes by their villages.

Finally, we find a place, but it’s getting late and we go to bed, we do not even notice the good view.

Only the next morning, we recognize the idyll. The Nile flows leisurely around an island out of stones with sand banks. A paradise.

Only the rattle of a gasoline generator or a pump disturbs the idyll. We look at where the sound comes from and meet a group of men who by means of a pump, pump water from the Nile into tankers. The hospitality of the Sudanese people is great and now we sit with them and drink tea.

From hibiscus flowers they prepare good tea. The flowers are boiled in a kettle.

Since we do not speak Arabic, our conversation is limited to simple things that can be expressed also with hands and feet.

Finally, the tea is poured into typical glasses, sweetened with strawberry jam and ready is breakfast tea.

We sit a while with the men and talk about this and that and enjoy the view of the Nile.

We are once again surprised by how friendly people are here. We need to straighten our image of Sudan in our head, so much negative reports are on this country and its people, mostly from a very narrow perspective, which distorts the image and prejudice can arise that is out of place and inappropriate.

We take a look at the floods of the Nile and make our way because we want still come to Dongola.

The route winds through many villages along the Nile, so far we have only seen small towns in Sudan, Dongola is to be a major city, where we want to add stocks and look at the place closer. We are already very excited.

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