Twyfelfontein 108

After we left Petrified Forest Khorixas, we drive a little further to Twyfelfontein. A World Heritage Site by Unesco.

Twyfelfontein
Twyfelfontein Road

With a guide, we entered the site. The rock arena is ideally situated slightly increased between protecting hillsides and panoramic views across the savannah.

Twyfelfontein
Remains of the Farm House

The farm house of the former owner. “Dubious Well,” called the farmer his land, because the well bubbles only irregular.

Twyfelfontein
Rock Engravings

The tour around the area takes about an hour and early morning or late afternoon should be best because of the heat.

Twyfelfontein
Rock Engravings

Whether the art that is carved into the rock is derived from the San or the Damara is not known. The San people, of whom one knows that they had 100 years ago rock carvings, showing human and animal figures , but today they have no relation to the rock art and their legends say that the images are made by gods.

Twyfelfontein
Twyvelfountain

With quartz stones the engravings were carved into the sandstone. Under overhangs are actually even paintings. All kinds of animals such as lions, elephants, giraffes and rhinos are shown. In between abstract patterns.

About the motive of the representations, science knows nothing. It could be works of hunters in order to summon hunting success. A date is hardly feasible, because tools found here are from the Neolithic period, to associate the images to this period is impossible. The surface of the sandstone does not tell anything about about age, either because the environmental conditions are unpredictable here. Probably the images are between several thousand years and a few hundred years old.

We enjoy the tranquility of this mystic place in Twyfelfontein. and the beautiful landscape in which people left their works of art. But we need to continue and set up camp at the nearby campsite.

The campsite is on the dry riverbed of the Huab River, which only leads periodically water.

Twyfelfontein
Our van at the right at the river bed

Occasionally elephants are sighted, we have no luck.

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Petrified Forest Khorixas 107

We go on the “pad” to the petrified forest near Khorixas, which means something like street. We left Kamanjab most likely for ever. The scenery is wonderful and we come to Khorixas, where we camp and accidentally meet a couple with a Land Rover, that we had met months earlier in Nairobi. Africa is small.

The gravel roads are perfect in Namibia. Exemplary maintained and they, therefore, allow very high speeds, which ensures a fast progress. So we are also quick at petrified Forest.

Petrified Forest Khorixas
petrified forest Khorixas

With a guide, we wander through the site. The partially completely preserved petrified trunks of a primeval forest are distributed in the landscape. They grew 300 million years ago, but not here. It is believed that they were transported by rivers. Fossilization takes place under air. The trunks were covered with sand, thus they could not rot.

Petrified Forest Khorixas
petrified forest Khorixas

Then acid water penetrated into the cells of the wood and thus layer by layer became stone. Good to recognize are the annual rings. Between the trunks grows Welwitschia, a wonderful place,when it is noon, however, it gets very hot.

Petrified Forest Khorixas
petrified forest Khorixas

It is a popular tourist destination located in the Kunene Region of Namibia, Africa. It is a vast area of land that contains ancient trees that have been turned to stone, estimated to be around 280 million years old. The Petrified Forest is believed to have formed during the Permian period when the area was covered by a vast forest. The trees were gradually buried under layers of sediment and over time, the organic matter was replaced by minerals, resulting in the petrification of the trees.

Petrified Forest Khorixas
petrified forest Khorixas

Today, visitors can see the petrified tree trunks and stumps that have been exposed by erosion. The trees are now made of stone, but their original shapes and textures can still be seen. Some of the trees are up to 30 meters in length and several meters in diameter.

In addition to the petrified trees, the area is also home to a variety of wildlife, including baboons, kudus, and various species of birds. It is a unique and fascinating natural wonder that offers visitors a glimpse into the ancient past of the Earth.

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Porcupines at Kamanjab in Namibia 106

After New Year, we move on and go through the Caprivi passing Grootfonein to Kamanjab, where we check in at Vital and Marianne the owners of Oppi – Koppi Restcamp.

oppi koppi
Oppi Koppi Rest Camp at Vital and Marianne

The site is idyllic and the owners are nice people. What we do not yet know that we will spend almost a year here.

After a couple of days our friends who we were traveling with from Kenya to Uganda Stephen and Steffi arrive at Oppi Koppi. They wanted to find work in South Africa but could not find, so they started working at Oppi Koppi.

Steffi and Stephen
Steffi and Stephen
Porcupines
Camping at Oppi Koppi

At the campsite we discover a chameleon. Suspicious, it turns its eyes in all directions. The coloring is adjusted to the background, but not only that, but the mood of the animal can be read from the color.

oppi koppi
Cameleon at Oppi Koppi

On Oppi – Koppi, we get acquainted with the German-Namibian Kathrin who runs the Porcupine Camp near to Kamanjab. We go to visit her.

Porcupines
Kathrin at Porcupines Lodge

The rest camp is situated in beautiful countryside. The lodge is simple,with tents and has a campground. The specialty here are porcupines that live in the wild, but at night if they want, go in for a snack. We want to see this, of course.

Porcupines
Campsite at Porcupines Lodge

Kathrin tells us much about their socalled children, as she calls the animals. She shows us the different species of stings which these pretty animals have on their backs. We sit with her with coffee and cake, and quite forget how fast time goes by. It has become dim and Kathrin has quickly spread the food and turned on the radio, because they are used. Now we have to wait.

Once it is dark the first porcupines appear.

Porcupines
Porcupines

They look cute and are surprisingly not very shy. Kathrin must provide more food, because they have huge appetite today.

It does not take long and there are several at the feeding station. They are surprisingly large. We thought they were much smaller.

When there is food, there is ranking and they fight a bit to get the largest portion, which produces a rattling noise.

It was a nice evening, but we say goodbye to Kathrin and say goodbye to Marianne and Vital, we do not yet know that we have been back here in two weeks. We go on the “pad”, which means something like street.

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Okavango in Namibia 105

After a few kilometers we turn off in Divundu to Mahangu Lodge and see the first time the Okavango.

Okavango
Okavango Campsite Mahangu Lodge

It calmly flows, until the Okavango Delta it is still about 200 kilometers where it stops in the Kalahari sand.

We also camp at the nearby Popa Falls. Popa Falls is a series of cascades and rapids located on the Okavango River in northeastern Namibia, near the border with Botswana. The falls are situated within the Bwabwata National Park and are a popular tourist attraction in the area.

Okavango
Popa Falls – Okavango

The falls are not very high, with a total drop of only about 4 meters (13 feet), but the volume of water flowing through the channels and rapids can be quite impressive, especially during the rainy season. The falls are also surrounded by a beautiful natural environment, with lush vegetation, forests, and wetlands, making it a great spot for nature lovers and photographers.

Okavango
Popa Falls Campsite

Visitors to Popa Falls can enjoy a range of activities, including camping, hiking, birdwatching, and fishing. The area is particularly known for its excellent tiger fishing, and several lodges and campsites in the area offer guided fishing trips and boat safaris.

Okavango

Overall, Popa Falls is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to northeastern Namibia, offering a unique combination of natural beauty and outdoor adventure.

We move on only a little bit because it is already two days before Christmas, and we do not want to wander around like Joseph and Mary. The Lodge is situated idyllically on the Okavango River overlooking Angola, we find this is a good place to spend Christmas and New Year too.

Okavango
Dancer at the Lodge

The Okavango River forms the boundary between Namibia and Angola for much of its length, and on the Namibian side, it is a vital source of water and life for both people and wildlife. The river flows through the Caprivi Stripe, a narrow strip of land in the far northeast of Namibia that extends between Angola to the north and Botswana to the south.

Okavango
Okavango with view to Angola

Along the Namibian side of the Okavango River, there are several towns and villages, including Rundu, Divundu, and Katima Mulilo, which serve as important centers for trade, commerce, and tourism in the region. The river also supports a diverse range of flora and fauna, including hippos, crocodiles, elephants, and a variety of fish species, making it a popular destination for wildlife viewing and fishing.

The Okavango River is also an important source of water for irrigation and agriculture in the region, and many small-scale farmers rely on the river for their livelihoods. However, the river is also subject to periodic flooding, which can cause significant damage to crops and infrastructure in the surrounding areas.

Okavango
Xmas in the Lodge

Overall, the Okavango River is a vital and dynamic natural resource on the Namibian side, supporting both human and ecological communities and playing an important role in the social, economic, and environmental sustainability of the region.

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Caprivi stripe – Lizauli Village, Namibia 104

Immediately after the border into Namibia we are in Caprivi stripe,a marvelous landscape and in Katima Mulilo, we set up our tent at the Zambezi. Everything is organized so properly, we believe we have left Africa.

Caprivi
Caprivi stripe – Camp at the Zambezi

Our journey continues west through the Caprivi strip on smooth tarmac. The route is over 100 kilometers straight, a few years ago, this was a dirt road, which at that time was a challenge.

But soon we turn off because we need an accommodation for the night. On the Kwando River, we find a place to stay. We are surprised by the price. Camping is not necessarily cheap.

Caprivi
Caprivi Stripe Campsite
Caprivi
charcoal cooking in Caprivi stripe
Caprivi
campsite at day light

But it’s only for one night because we want to visit a traditional village, called Lizauli. In the village we see women as they grind grain.

Caprivi
Lizauli women

A young man leads us around and shows us a traditional mousetrap. We must wait now what the medicine man found out, especially waiting for the translation. We are told that this instrument is intended to attract the hippo and used for hunting.

Caprivi
Lizauli Medicine Man

The Zemba or Lizauli are an ethnic group in Namibia, primarily found in the Zambezi Region (formerly known as the Caprivi Strip). The Zemba people have a unique culture and language, and are known for their traditional music and dance. They rely on fishing, hunting and small-scale agriculture for their livelihoods, and their community life is based on a strong sense of family and social ties. The Zemba people have faced challenges in the past, including displacement from their ancestral lands due to colonialism and conflict, but they continue to maintain their cultural identity and traditions.

Caprivi
Lizauli Village

Back on the main street in the Caprivi, suddenly an elephant is on the road. Just incredible. We head for Divundu at the eastern bank of the Okavango.

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Livingstone, Zambia 103

Back at Moorings campsite we suppose that Tara has again tick fever but we are not sure. The next morning it was much more dramatic as she could not morve her hind legs so we drove another 100 km back north to meet the British Vet.

Moorings Farm
Moorings Farm Campsite

She examined Tara carefully and came to the conclusion that she has got the sleeping sickness which she obviously had from some wet area where the tsetse fly is comon. Tara got injections and antibiotics, we stay a few days more with the Swiss couple in Moorings until she has recovered. So we moved on to Livingstone again and gave Tara there a few days to recover as here it is close to the Namibian border.

Livingstone
Livingstone Campsite

However, we are a little pressed for time, because the rainy season has begun and it is pouring with rain. In addition, our visa expires and we should continue to Namibia. Unluckily we are as our power cord extension went up in flames, no idea why but I just could stop it before the whole 50 meters were gone. So despite the rain I had to shorten the power cord and add a new plug to have power again.

Livingstone
Rainy season

We wait for the worst rains to be over, Tara is feeling better and so we set off towards the border.

Livingstone
dogs at the campsite
Livingstone
Tara has made arrangements

From Livingstone until the border is around 200 kilometers, we will make it in one day. The route is fairly straight forward on a good tarmac. Despite major traffic route, there is little traffic, it hardly exists border traffic between Zambia and Namibia.

Livingstone
Livingstone Campsite

A modern bridge over the Zambezi River connects the two countries and was added to a ferry, which was once the only link between the two countries here.

At the end of the bridge is the border post. We leave Zambia and traveling to Namibia.

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Victoria Falls 102

Via Lusaka we head south to Victoria Falls. We had met a Swiss couple days earlier, we would like to visit them at the Moorings Campsite, where they have settled.

Moorings farm
Moorings campsite with the Swiss couple

We spend a few days here and have fun with them. But we want to continue on to Victoria Falls to Livingstone. On a good tar road it is easy to get there in one day. On the way we fill up with charcoal for cooking.

charcoal seller
Getting some charcoal for cooking

Livingstone is a modern city and we stay at the Livingstone Safari Camp Site. Almost every camp has dogs, but mostly Tara gets along fine with the half-wild dogs. She is old and interestingly most dogs have respect for her.

The camp is very good. It provides shadows has electricity and even has free internet access.

Another advantage is that it is close to Victoria Falls, where we want to go today. The first sight is gigantic.

Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls in dry season

The water masses are not so great because it is dry season, but this allows good vision, as if a strong water vapor is in the air you cannot seen so much.

Victoria Falls
Bridge at the falls connecting Zambia and Zimbabwe but not Namibia

“Thunder Smoke” it was called by the locals before the falls were renamed by Livingstone in honor of the queen. They are among the great natural wonders of the world and have been classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The Victoria Falls form an edge of 1688 meters and plunge 108 meters into the depths. This makes them the largest unique down collapsing mass of water in the world. They are twice as high as Niagara Falls.

Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls

The Zambezi lays back 1440 km from its source in northwestern Zambia to Victoria Falls. Until those falls, it is calm and leisurely. Then it bends and gains speed noticeably.

It rushes over rapids against the escarpment. Then it plunges over 100 meters into a narrow gorge. Now the water masses squeeze through steep narrow gorges, until it finally empties into Lake Kariba.

Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls

At the falls there is a monument representing the David Livingstone, who is the discoverer. But they were discovered of countless locals who lived here for centuries.
Also, he should not have been the first white man who saw the falls. Three years earlier, a certain Cooley showed the falls in his map. And 1848 a Portuguese could have already been here. In any case, it is good for Zambia, because Livingstone is a well-sounding name, and can be marketed.

Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls

A bridge spans the gorge, and marks the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. You can visit both sides of the falls without difficulty, because the border officials are used and there is not much paperwork and let visitors pass over the bridge.

We have enjoyed the waterfalls, they are indeed impressive. We drive back to the campsite. There, we notice that Tara is feeling bad and has problems with her hind legs so we decide to return to the Swiss couple, because they know a good vet.

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Lake Kariba 101

The next day we go to Lake Kariba and leave Lower Zambezi National Park. It forms the border with Zimbabwe. The road there to the Lake as everywhere in Africa is chalenging. But the landscape is scenic.

Lake Kariba
Lake Kariba Road

Scenic and slow is life at the lake in this area, some village huts and everything is done walking and chating.

Lake Kariba
Lake Kariba huts
Lake Kariba
women along the road

From a hill we have a good view. The idea for a lake dates back to 1912. Only in 1955 the project was implemented by an Italian company. The construction was difficult, because there can be up to 50 degrees Celsius.

Lake Kariba
Lake Kariba

In 1958, the Zambezi was eventually dammed. Quickly the water rose but it took five years until the Lake Kariba was filled.
The realization of the project has cost 86 lives. The construction was carried out against the will of the Tonga tribe. Under state pressure 57,000 people were forcibly relocated.

With an surface area of ​​approximately 5,000 square kilometers Lake Kariba is one of the largest lakes in Africa. Its coastline is 2,000 kilometers. The lake is 280 kilometers long and 28 kilometers wide at its widest point. It is 120 meters deep, but an average of 20 meters.

Lake Kariba
Only hotel and campsite

Lake Kariba is a man-made lake located on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe in southern Africa. The lake was created in the 1950s by damming the Zambezi River, and it is now a popular tourist destination known for its wildlife.

The lake and its surrounding areas are home to a wide variety of wildlife species, including elephants, hippos, crocodiles, zebras, buffaloes, lions, leopards, and many species of birds. The lake itself is home to numerous fish species, including the famous tiger fish, which is a popular game fish.

In addition to the wildlife that can be seen around the lake, there are also several national parks and game reserves in the area that offer visitors the chance to see even more wildlife up close. These include the Matusadona National Park in Zimbabwe and the Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia.

Overall, Lake Kariba is a great destination for wildlife enthusiasts, offering a unique combination of water-based and land-based wildlife viewing opportunities in a beautiful natural setting.

Lake Kariba
Campsite

On its shores developed tourist infrastructure and beautiful hotels.

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Lower Zambezi National Park 100

Through hilly terrain, we go to the Lower Zambezi National Park, we do not want to get in, but spend a few days on the banks of the Zambezi. First we have to leave Lusaka.

We are perfectly located on the banks of the Kafue river at the camp site Gwaabi.

Lower Zambezi National Park
Lower Zambezi National Park – campsite

Lower Zambezi National Park – campsite

Lower Zambezi National Park
Lower Zambezi National Park – campsite

It is not the Zambezi, but the Kafue which is also very nice. A few miles from here it flows into the Zambezi river.

Lower Zambezi National Park
Kafue river close to Zambezi

Under storm clouds, we prepare dinner. Hopefully we can make it before the rain. We get to know a couple from Lusaka, which invites us to a spontaneous boat ride. They live in Lusaka, but they come from Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe. They have their boat lying here and come here often on the weekend.

Lower Zambezi National Park
Ferry across Kafue River

We go the Kafue downstream passing the ferry until we finally turn off on the Zambezi. Tara is on the boat as well, she obviously enjoys the cool breeze. The Zambezi River is a border river and forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Lower Zambezi National Park
Couple from Lusaka
Lower Zambezi National Park
Tara enjoys the boat ride

It rises in the east of Zambia and is essentially formed by the rivers Kolomo, Matetsi and Kwai, which discharge into the Lake Kariba, and from Lake Kariba, the river is called Zambezi. It flows through Zambia and Mozambique where it flows into the Indian Ocean.

Lower Zambezi National Park
Hippos from the boat on Zambezi

We pass a group of hippos and pass quite close to the shore to Zimbabwe, where I am amazed that there are no border controls or water police, patrolling the frontier.

Lower Zambezi National Park
Fisher men on Zimbabwe side

And again we come across a group of Hippos. We drive slowly closer, not too close, that could be dangerous. We make a rest at a sand bank in the middle of the Zambezi. We walk around alert of possible crocodiles, but Tara wanted to get out as well, for her sandy beach and water is pure pleasure.

Lower Zambezi National Park
Sand bank in Zambezi River
Lower Zambezi National Park
Tara on the Zambezi

After a few hours we return to the campsite. It was a great boat trip, dinner is prepared now. We do not sit for five minutes a snake suddenly falls from the tree, in front of our feet.

Lower Zambezi National Park
Snake on the barbecue
Lower Zambezi National Park
Snake on the barbecue

It has a lizard in its mouth, apparently it fell from a tree while hunting. We do not know which kind of snake it is. The head shape does, however, point out that it is venomenous. In any case we were lucky because it has already made ​​prey.

It is obviously irritated by our presence, but begins to devour its prey. It looks quite interesting as the lizard continually moves through its body.

Lower Zambezi National Park
camp

Lower Zambezi National Park we will never forget this great place.

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Lusaka, Zambia 099

Quickly we want to get to Lusaka, the capital of Zambia. We cross the Luangwa river again, hundreds of kilometers later, and cross it on a fairly new bridge.

Lusaka
The Luangwa near Lusaka

By late afternoon we reached Lusaka, especially at rush hour, so we push our way through the dense city traffic.

Lusaka
Foodstall along the road

Outside the city, we remain at the Eureka camp. The plots are well equipped with shelter, barbecue area and power connector on lush green grass. We are astonished as we discover zebras grazing on the camp site. I try to get closer, let’s see how close they let me go. Their flight distance is short. They are not pets, but you realize that they are accustomed to humans.

Lusaka
Lusaka – Eureka Camp

Lusaka is the capital and largest city of Zambia, located in the southern part of the country. With a population of over 3 million people, it is the commercial and political center of Zambia.

The city has a rich history, dating back to the 5th century AD when it was a small village. It grew in importance during the colonial period as a trading and administrative center for the British South Africa Company. After Zambia gained independence in 1964, Lusaka became the capital of the newly formed country.

Today, Lusaka is a bustling and vibrant city, with a mix of modern and traditional architecture. It has a number of cultural and historical sites, such as the Zambia National Museum, which features exhibits on the country’s history and culture, and the Freedom Statue, a monument dedicated to Zambia’s struggle for independence.

Lusaka is also a hub for business and commerce in the region, with a number of multinational corporations, banks, and international organizations based in the city. It has a growing arts and music scene, with a number of galleries, theaters, and live music venues.

Overall, Lusaka is a dynamic and growing city, with a mix of modern amenities and traditional Zambian culture, making it an interesting and vibrant place to visit.

But you cannot compare it to European Cities as there is no real historical center, and the so called centers make the impression of villages. All of the African Cities.

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Overland Travel Tips for Africa

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