Shortly after the camp tarmac begins again, we are surprised. Today, we make it to the Ngorongoro Crater. Behind a smelly bus, it goes up a mountain, we stop and enjoy the view of the Manyara National Park.

The National Park was established in 1960, two thirds of the area are occupied by the lake. The area was also the setting for the classic film “Hatari” with John Wayne and Hardy Kruger.

We stay on the camp on the hill, where we also have a great view of the Manyara National Park.

We decide before go to the crater, to make a side trip to Lake Eyasi, there should be Bushmen. First, it goes well on the tar, then gravel. The gravel is getting worse and we are skeptical about whether we make it because our car is in no good condition.

Then a section comes that looks too bad. On foot, we inspect it. We decide to turn around, probably we are having more damage on this route. so we go back.

We drive closer to Ngorongoro Crater and make camp very near the gate to the road up to the crater.

The next morning I go alone to the Ngorongoro Crater. Alexandra remains with Tara back at the campground. Admission is horrendous. 100 U.S. dollars for one person plus car per day. I grudgingly pay and go up.

The scenery is beautiful, but from the view into the crater I’m disappointed, I do not pay the extra 100 U.S. dollars into the crater. The crater is 16 by 20 kilometers and is home to many animals. All animals except giraffes and impalas are represented in the crater.The landscape on the floor of the crater is a microcosm of its own. The heart is Lake Magadi which is the lowest point, depending on the rainy season, sometimes filled,.

The track leads along the crater rim, passing the Grzimek monument. The professor had campaigned for the wild animals. He gave everything for nature conservation. Here he also lost his son Michael in a plane crash.

From the crater rim you have a good view of the Serengeti.

When I return an elephant is on the track, the only animal that I’ve seen in the national park.

A comprehensive overview for planning an overland journey can be found in Overlanding Tanzania.

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On overland roads for another day. We start again early, now we should make it to Arusha, if everything goes smoothly. But in Africa you can not plan ahead, so many things can happen that can not be calculated. But nothing went smoothly.

Just a quick refuel and we’re back on the road. Worst gravel. This was not expected, our goal for today to get to Arusha, disappears. It is dusty like hell, sometimes thick air inside the car. We see the Mount Hanang, we have not yet come far.

The long-distance bus rush over the gravel, it is a wonder that the vehicles do not break down. We need to slow down, because our chassis makes strange noises.

And then it happens, the lock of our back door broke, the door flies open, what we did not notice immediately because of the noise. And within seconds, everything in the car was covered with red dust. A 1 cm thick layer of red soil was everywhere, even Tara was completely red. Shit happens, but now how to repair.

With a strap, I tie the back door to the bench, which, although not seals, but at least we do not lose the back door. Everything is filthy. This will now become a mega cleaning.

Stop in a guest house in Babati. We look at the mess. It is clear in the morning the door must be welded, but now needs to be cleaned.

Luckily we find a locksmith. The boys go to work immediately. There are a lot of advice – let’s see how long it works.

We continue to fine tarmac, but the joy does not last long, and already we are on a gravel road. Parallel to the gravel there is already a new tar road, but unfortunately it can not be used. On this day again we do not get a far distance, just a few kilometers, turn to a campsite in a small palm grove. We find a good spot, nice in the shade, no electricity, everything simple, but not bad.

We discovered an abandoned vehicle, a Land Rover Forward Control, which would be a vehicle for us, for Africa. We fantasize about it, we could weld a box for sleeping, recondition the vehicle, we are excited about the idea.

But it is not for sale, after the problems we had we would have immediately changed.

Shortly after the camp tarmac begins again, we are surprised. Today, we make it to the Ngorongoro Crater.

A comprehensive overview for planning an overland journey can be found in Overlanding Tanzania.

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The next morning we are back on the road into rural Tanzania. We want into the Ngorongoro Crater, but must make a detour of several hundred kilometers because of Tara, as we do not dare to smuggle her into the national park again.

We expect three to five days time for the detour. The first day we make it to Mwanza. We hear that one can camp at the Yacht Club.

The view from the yacht club on Lake Victoria is beautiful. We can not enjoy it long, only quickly drink coffee, because today we must travel a long distance. Outside the club, we buy from street vendors or Mandasi, similar to doughnuts and chapati.

The road is good and we are progressing fast. Again and again, huge baobab trees by the roadside.

Half way we supplement our supplies with bananas. They are smaller here than in Europe, but much sweeter, which I prefer. I could eat tons of it.

Central Tanzania is fairly flat and very dry. The area is also very sparsely populated. Tara is bored and hot, she does not like long car rides. We can find a place where she can get out and do her business.

Peanuts are sold at the roadside. We stop. We are immediately besieged by countless hands. Everyone wants to sell his goods. Tara does not like this and is defending the car.

The peanuts purchased are not peanuts, we have absolutely no idea what this is, we taste, not too bad, but do not really know if you eat it raw, or roasted, or if you have to cook the grains. In any case, we can make it on this day to Singida, where we camp in the parking lot of the guesthouse.

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Later it turned out that Tara is a bit better, but we decided to go back to Kenya as in Eldoret we know the vet which is the brother of Raj the owner of the Lodge in Eldoret.

In Kisumu, Kenya it turned out that Tara was healthy again, so we could continue our trip to Tanzania.

The border crossing was once again without any problems, no one cared about Tara, we have not had the Tanzania shilling yet, so we quickly drove to Musoma to go to the ATM to plunder it.

It was out of service, our Kenyan shillings were not changed by a bank, so again back to the border to the black market and back to Musoma, because there is a camping site. Pure stress.

After we changed a flat tire in the morning, we lost air overnight, we continue to drive towards Serengeti. We are not sure if we can smuggle in Tara, so we spend the night once more near the gates at Lake Victoria, to be first at the gate at dawn. The track to the camp is once again muddy, so we struggle on bravely until this idyllic place.

Now, some good advice is needed, which track to take. We detour, which does not always lead to success, this time at least we do not get stuck.

We reached the place with dry feet and really relax and prepare mentally for the Serengeti National Park. A marabou stork shows its best side, but it is really an ugly birds.

We are inside. Tara was quiet at the gate for a change and thus she was not discovered. We had to pay in U.S. dollars which is not so easy, because after almost a year of Africa, our dollar reserves were used up. But as usual in Africa, there is always a way.

Soon we see the first animals. A hyena on morning game hunt.

Zebras, a whole herd, a lonely giraffe and a couple of elephants, what more could you expect.

The scenery is magnificent. We see a vulture and a secretary bird, it has the name because of its head feathers.

And of course baboons. They are not completely harmless, because they are not shy and come to the car and sometimes long in purely because they want to steal something.The Serengeti is a grass and tree savannah and is known in the western world by Professor Grimek, who campaigned for the preservation of the Serengeti. He aroused the interest that boosted the tourism and contributed to the preservation of the Serengeti.

And then, out of nowhere a lioness appears. Lion like to stay in the Seronera Valley, because they have good coverage, rich wildlife and plenty of water. And then we discover a second lioness under a tree. Lionesses are not loners. They live together with other lionesses and cubs. Only the males are solitary. A third shows up, they seem to be hunting. But soon it disappears in the bush.

Further afield, we discover a herd of Thomson’s gazelle, easily recognizable by the black markings on their belly.

We drive on and see the lions again. They are on the hunt. Nearby is a large herd of zebra which are in the focus of the lionesses. A single elephant bull crosses our path. They are dangerous, especially if they are after cows. Perhaps cows are also nearby. We have lost the lionesses, but we run into a herd of zebra that are extremely worried. Likely lionesses are nearby. And, in fact. The lionesses launch an attack. But the zebras are faster, and still on alert.

In a nearby water we see hippos. They lie close together in the water and enjoy the cool water. But we must return. There are still 100 kilometers to the gate. On the way back, we see an even larger herd of elephants.

We make it to the campsite before sunset, although before the gate we had a puncture. Alexandra has secured the area, it could have been a lion in the bush, I changed the tire. Everything went well.

A comprehensive overview for planning an overland journey can be found in Overlanding Tanzania.

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We head for Queen Elizabeth National Park. The transport sector in Africa is its own thing. Whether a vehicle is overloaded, no one here is interested. They load all the space available and more, or in other words,it is loaded short before the leaf springs breaks. To optimize matters on the top they pack a few passengers, so that the vehicle is also utilized really well.

What in an emergency brake with the people above would happen, I do not dare to imagine.

We again cross the equator, a plain concrete ring with inscription: “Equator”, marks the spot.

Tara is worried because her mum has moved too far from the van. Or is it the buffalo that concerns her.

A transit route leads through the national park, we turn off onto a dirt road that leads through the park, but we do not have to pay for that road.

We stop at a shallow lake and stay a little bit. Perhaps animals come to its shores. But we have no luck and drive on.

Again and again we see buffalos, a dangerous animal, because if they live in herds and feel disturbed, they circle a vehicle and attack. And then we’re lucky. A herd of elephants with young animals on the roadside.

They march parallel to the road, we follow them slowly. The elephant population in Queen Elizabeth National Park formerly included more than 4,000 animals, but decreased rapidly in the 80ies and shrank to just 200 animals. To date, the stock has recovered to about 3,000 elephants.

But eventually they disappear in the dense shrubbery.

At the roadside a waterbuck. We do not want to scare him, and remain within a reasonable distance. It does not move. We drive closer, but it stays without fear, it is used to cars. And even closer, incredibly, it stays. Now it is almost in reach of our arms. We do not want to confuse and drive on.

We drive to the lake and discover an elephant swimming in the evening twilight. We spend the night at the Hippo Lodge and enjoy a spectacular sunrise. So the morning coffee taste even better.

The Hippo Lodge is located on a hill overlooking the lake. It is not really a lodge, but a tented camp. That means big tents are set up permanently, with beds and bedding, the luxury version even has a bathroom and a toilet. These tents are rented like hotel rooms by safari companies.

We leave the quiet village early, perhaps we see on the way some animals. The people in the village are also already gotten up, we see little fires burning and hear rattling dishes.

Only some 100 meters outside the village a herd of elephants crossing the road. This is called luck. We stop and watch.

And then, on a hill, we see a strange spectacle. Two young elephants at play. We have never seen that before.

We leave Queen Elizabeth National Park and cross the Kazinga channel that connects Lake Edward with Lake George and divides the park into two parts.

On the edge of the national park on a hill we found a small campsite. Lovingly it is created, with round huts and an open rondavel, from which there is a wide view of the park. Tara is pretty bad, when we walked her in the morning she was close to a bush, so she might have been bitten by a snake or a scorpion or a spider, we do not know, but as she feels really bad we need a vet, either in the capital, Kampala, or must return to Kenya. Tomorrow we will decide where to go.

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A crater lake is still on our agenda. To Lake Kasenda a narrow forest path leads to the campsite. It is on the level of the water surface, which will be fatal as we soon will see.

Lake Kasenda is a crater lake located in western Uganda, in the Kasese District. It’s one of the most scenic crater lakes in the area, with crystal clear waters surrounded by lush vegetation and rolling hills. Visitors to Lake Kasenda can enjoy a variety of activities, such as hiking around the lake, bird watching, and fishing for tilapia and catfish. The lake is also a popular destination for photography and nature lovers, with breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.

Again, this lake is idyllic. The slopes of the extinct volcano are densely covered with tropical vegetation. We enjoy the peace and quietness here and take a walk along the shore, for a narrow path leads along the lake.

In the night it rained, however, and heavily, which has transformed the black volcanic soil into soft soap.

We have massive problems, despite sand ladders to get out of the crater. The van always slips sideways off the track.

With stones in the lane, we try to stabilize the van. And then it happened. The van slipped into a tree and damaged the bodywork on the roof. Bad luck, but our problem is still unresolved. Only with the help of eight boys who held to stabilize the van, we manage our escape.

We are glad to have tar under the wheels again. Our next destination is Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Overall, Lake Kasenda is a hidden gem in western Uganda that offers a tranquil and scenic escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. It’s a great place to relax, unwind, and immerse yourself in the natural beauty of Uganda.

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Lake Nkuruba is our next stay. It is close to Fort Portal and many other crater lakes. Uganda is known for its diverse natural beauty, including its many crater lakes. These stunning lakes are formed in volcanic craters, and offer a unique and picturesque destination for tourists.

The trail winds through villages and fields, on the crater Nyabikere we stay in the Crater Valley Lodge.

We’re just in time for sunset. Golden sunlight reflected on the surface of the crater lake.

We still want to visit Lake Nkuruba. It leads through banana groves in hilly landscape. The area consists of more than 40 lakes, all of which have a different color.

At the Community Campsite we stop. The campsite is situated on the edge of the crater and allows good views into the crater. The crater rim is covered with rain forest. The lake is not very large, perhaps 100 by 100 meters. Impressive is the background noise. Crickets, birds, and occasionally you can hear the call of a colobus monkey.

From the campsite, we can observe a group of colobus monkeys. They are eager to pick the fleas from the coat. Social grooming, this is called, is a sign of confidence in monkeys and also serves to strengthen social relationships.

Funny to watch are their ​​tassel-like tails. The black – white fur serves as camouflage. In the forest and the forest canopy, where light and shadow contrasts are hard, they are hardly exempt from the distance and well camouflaged.

We observe these fascinating creatures for a while until we are invited by the head of the campsite to watch a dance performance of the village youth.

add_photo_alternate The next day we go from here to the so-called “roof of the world”. There is a hill from which one can overlook several crater lakes.

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We continue alone into the Congo basin, we want to Semliki National Park. We have a small mountain ridge ahead with wonderful landscape, of which one has good views over the Congo basin. From here one can see into the Republic of Congo.

A few kilometers later we reach the ranger station. We hire a guide who takes us to the hot springs. Immediately we spot Colobus monkeys.

The Semliki Park consists ​​of genuine lowland rainforest, with tropical humid and very hot climate. Between 1997 and 2001 the park several times had to be closed to the public, because anti-government rebels were staying in the area and from there, attacked villages and settlements.

Therefore, prior to a trip to the Semliki, always check the latest security situation.

Semliki National Park, a hidden gem nestled in western Uganda, is a captivating haven of biodiversity and natural wonders. Covering an expansive area of about 220 square kilometers, this relatively lesser-known national park boasts a diverse range of ecosystems, including tropical rainforests, savannah grasslands, and hot springs. Its rich biodiversity, unique geological features, and cultural significance make it a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike.

The park is located in the Semliki Valley, which is part of the Albertine Rift, an area known for its exceptional biological diversity. The Albertine Rift, characterized by its steep escarpments and deep valleys, is home to numerous national parks and reserves, making it a crucial conservation area for Africa’s wildlife.

Semliki National Park is bordered by the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the west and the Rwenzori Mountains National Park to the south. This strategic location provides a vital corridor for wildlife migration between Uganda and the neighboring countries, contributing to regional biodiversity conservation.

The park’s most prominent feature is the Semliki River, which meanders through the valley and serves as a lifeline for the diverse flora and fauna that inhabit the park. The river’s banks are lined with dense gallery forests, creating an ideal habitat for a variety of animal and plant species.

Finally we reached the hot springs and the hot steam can already be seen from far. With approximately 106 degrees Celsius, the water comes out of the ground, two springs are in the nature of geysers. Of course we are told the common story of boiling eggs in the springs which is said the people at the weekend come here for picnic and boil eggs.

To get a better overview, we climb a wobbly tower. Up from here, you can see far into the country and the steam of hot springs. The rest of the day, we relax on the nearby idyllic campsite.

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We stay overnight at Kibale Forest National Park. There is a mountain and rain forest system with enclosed swamp and grassland sections. The trees can grow up to 55 meters. The park has one of the highest primate densities in the world.

We are enthusiastic about army ants marching like soldiers in a row on the road. We hoped to see monkeys, but as much as we scan the trees, nothing to see.

A little disappointed we leave Kibale Forest National Park. At the reception, we stop to pay for the night. The receptionist is very nice and said she had already heard them. We step out of the building and we actually hear some. And suddenly there’s a rustling in the branches. A colobus monkey.

The monkeys are curiously watching us from the treetops. They are beautiful animals, with long-haired fur -black and white, they look like forest ghosts.

In Fort Portal we stay one more timeovernight and today we say goodbye to Steffen and Steffi. They were already three years on the road and have to go back. They want their car ship from South Africa to Europe, but until then, there are still some thousand kilometers.

We sign on the car and we hugged, it was nice to travel with them, they had come through West Africa, a hard part of Africa, we believe they are already a little tired of Africa.

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Sunset on Lake Albert. Idyllic. We find a place to stay in a guesthouse. Camping on the lawn, showers provided for us in a bungalow. With a sundowner we enjoy the atmosphere.

In the morning we continue another 100 kilometers, we will again stay at the Albert Lake. The track is not bad, so we should arrive by early afternoon.

Over a mountain range we come down to the level of the Lake Albert. The pass looks harmless, but it is difficult to drive .The area is sparsely populated, so we might as well camp free, but first we want to try it in a lodge.

Through tall grass we drive on a hill, where a hotel is signposted. We can camp in front of the hotel, get electricity and hot showers.

A short time after our arrival we get visitors. Two guys in uniform came to us and asked for our passports. We could not find out wheter these is Police, Customs or Military. They asked what we are doing in this remote area and we explained that we are on a trip from Europe to South Africa. I am not sure if he believed this but handed over our passports and left. The Hotel owner had no clue why they were here and how they found out about us in such a short time.

The view is wonderful. We’re looking at a traditional village, no new construction disturb the visual appearance, in the background Lake Albert.

The next day should bring us to Fort Portal. But the jungle track does not look for fast driving. In the short term, we doubt whether we are correct, but there is no other way.

The jungle track gets narrow and overgrown, we consider what we do with oncoming traffic, let’s see if we meet other vehicles at all. It is always wet and we start to slip a bit.

After a few hours we made it. We turn onto a wide track. On both sides tea cultivation, as far as the eye can see.

We have not heard about tea cultivation in Uganda, did never try it, therefore we do not know how it tastes. In any case, it is interesting to look more closely at the plant.

The roads in Uganda are generally quite good, because they are often repaired. With great Caterpillars the loose material is pushed away from the road and the surface is made ​​flat, then it is smooth and allows speeds up to 100km / h.

We stop again, this time to buy bananas. The fruits here are small and very sweet taste and taste really like bananas, totally different than in Europe. The seller can not take it to carry the goods up to the car. We say goodbye and go further.

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